Pitlochry, Scottish Restaurant Guide

In a Victorian railway hotel relaunched two years ago by brothers Chris & Andy Rowley, “this restaurant makes excellent use of produce from the same owners’ nearby Ballintaggart Farm”, where they operate a cook school. We rated it on limited feedback, all of it good.

Matilda Tsappis and her husband, ex-Leiths chef Tom, used to run a London supper club (Elia) before moving to this former B&B: now an 18-seater with open kitchen (and five bedrooms). According to one reporter this year: “it is no surprise that this restaurant has won several awards for its superb food. The tasting menu, made up of at least a dozen small plates, changes frequently as the chefs invent new dishes. The food is very imaginative, marrying mainly Scottish ingredients to modern techniques, delicious flavours and exquisite plating. There is also a choice of well-matched wine flights”.

Part of the Relais & Châteaux empire, a “lovely hotel with restaurant to match” that stands on 25 acres of parkland in prime shooting country – it’s “always a pleasure to revisit this traditional grand house and soak up the comfort in several lovely lounges and also the well-stocked bar”. Top Menu Tip – “the smoked salmon and the beef remain far and away the things to eat here”.