Soho, French Restaurant Guide

2023 Review: With a menu inspired by the French Riviera, this spacious outfit in Golden Square “quickly became a firm favourite for business lunches”, despite the unfortunate timing of its launch in late 2019. Parisian patron Guillaume Depoix’s vision of the ‘perfect Soho brasserie’, it delivers “delicious French food done simply and well”, with a “great clubby feeling, especially when the DJ is there at weekends”.

“Transport yourself to an imaginary 1930s world of Parisian glamour, as might be imagined by Fitzgerald or Hollywood”, when you visit this Art Deco basement, “bang in the heart of town”, just seconds from Piccadilly Circus. “The vast (Grade I listed) room is a crowded symphony of marble and gold leaf, with an immense buzz” and is “a faithful facsimile of a traditional French brasserie”, complete with an excellent American Bar. Fans say “if you want to impress without spending a fortune then this is the place to go” and since its founding (in 2015) it’s become a byword for “affordable luxury”, with most folks tolerating its “dull and unmemorable” Gallic staples for the overall package. Since changes in the group, however, the equation is beginning to shift and fears are growing that “the package all-round is not quite good enough”. “Service in particular has fallen notably in the post-Jeremy King era” and for more critical types “the whole experience is rather underwhelming” (“it was busy, but instead of making the atmosphere vibrant, there was a tired feel to the experience”). That’s not yet the dominant verdict though: most diners still “never tire of visiting… it always feels like a wonderful and extravagant treat”.

For a “really good-value meal” (including a “pretty decent steak-frites”) “in the heart of the West End” it’s hard to beat this Soho brasserie. “The simplicity of the menu” and “wide variety of choices” mean “there’s something for everyone”, so it’s “a real go-to”, especially for its set-price lunch or pre-theatre deals.

“Alexis is now 100% vegan and the result is outstanding”, say disciples of his quirky Soho venture – a “beautiful townhouse with a series of intimate, romantic rooms”, which he’s run since 2010, and which went fully meat-free in 2021. Vegetarians of course worship it, but so do many meat-eaters too (“I am an avowed carnivore and my mind was blown by this restaurant – how anyone can create something so superb from the humble vegetable is beyond my comprehension”). But that’s not to say it’s all plain sailing as many diners are in two minds about the switch and “still not completely convinced that the vegan offering is as good as the old omnivorous one”. One or two are just outright disappointed; but for most there’s a feeling that “some menu items are trying too hard and miss the mark”. A recurrent gripe is that “it seems odd that so much of his vegan menu imitates meat forms” (“I have no problems with a vegan establishment; my only annoyance is the tendency to imitate non-vegan dishes. I just wish they would stick to their guns and stop impersonating non-vegan cuisine because there is no question that Alexis and the team are very talented chefs”). The “slick service” and “fabulously atmospheric” space are the same as they ever were.

This “simply stunning” fairytale chamber on the top floor of the well-known Mayfair palazzo won many 5/5 reviews this year, while avoiding the brickbats often thrown at it in former years. “In these curious post-Covid times, where even the most indifferent restaurants are charging hard, this one now seems good value”, despite its notoriously vertiginous prices. Overseen by Gallic über-chef Pierre Gagnaire – Daniel Stucki provides a “divine” selection of intriguing modern French dishes, be it from the £190 tasting menu or £210 three-course à la carte. If this venue continues on its current “outstanding” form, we will have to finally agree that it is “deserving of its three Michelin stars”.

A gorgeous, Grade II Palladian Mansion… glowing pink-hued walls, high ceilings, glam banquettes… incredible artworks from Yinka Shonibare… über-chef Pierre Gagnaire’s menu… what’s not to like about this famous Mayfair venue? The fact that it’s seen as being mightily “overpriced” with forgettable food is the chief fault, which means that few other than fashionistas and first-timers are prepared to make the investment… even to go to the bog in a WC shaped like an egg!

This Gallic treasure (est. 1927, but ultimately dating back to 1896) is London’s oldest French restaurant and – complete with its snail carpet – remains a Soho landmark. Its standards under owner Brian Clivaz have held up well over the years, and its ratings continued to be solid in this slightly turbulent year (which saw the establishment close from February to May 2023 to allow for a financial restructuring). The fairly classic menu is appealing and mixes affordable entry-level dishes (croque monsieur at £12) with more luxurious options (such as baked lobster with garlic butter, or fillet of beef ‘Rossini’, both at £54). Top Tip – superb-value prix fixe at lunch and early evening: two courses £19, three courses £24.

“This intimate little counter-dining venue” in an ancient pub that nowadays finds itself part of Chinatown “shows levels of skill and technique to compete with much better-known places that leave you with a far higher bill”. James Goodyear has taken over from Luke Selby (the latter departing to be head chef at Le Manoir), but all reports swoon over “a truly special experience” and a multi-course tasting menu that’s “absolutely exceptional”. “Love the counter-top layout of the restaurant and the chefs are very happy to talk, explaining in detail how things are made (important to me because I am a very keen cook!)”. “It has a buzzy vibe and is a bit of a squeeze (in both space and time), making it a very different formula than nearby Aulis. Having said that, the cooking is consistently delightful, imaginative and bold. The menu feels well thought-through, building and balancing as it progresses”. “File it under ‘one to watch’ as they plan to build out the ambition even further”: from mid-2023 they are opening on Monday nights and also incorporating their wine bar, The Mulwray, and the pub, The Blue Posts, into the overall offering at Evelyn’s Table.

Jason Atherton’s elegant, “professional” wine bar and bistro is decked out in an understated, classic style that’s a little more retro than at his main gaff (Pollen Street), which is across the street. Here, chef Frankie van Loo offers less ‘foodie’ “bistro-style” dishes raised to a “superb” standard. The bar area is tiny, but “you can always have a pre-dinner drink at its big brother opposite, which has a great cocktail bar”. Top Tip – visit in summer, when you can eat outside on the pedestrianised street.