Southbank, Fish & Seafood Restaurant Guide

“This beautiful space by the river” – the stylish dining room of a South Bank hotel, designed by Tom Dixon – has “a wonderful view if you get a table by the window” and “plenty of space between the tables, so conversation is easy”. Standards in other respects, though, have been up-and-down over many years.

Swish rooftop Iberian seafood specialist on the 14th floor of a modern Southwark hotel. It remains solidly rated for its luxe seafood – including nine varieties of oyster, alongside lobster and caviar – with scores that stack up respectably against fashionable restaurants with a view. Pick carefully, and you could make an affordable meal here, but the more luxurious options are very punchily priced.

Three years on from a relaunch under its original name by Gordon Ramsay (it was formerly Kaspar’s), this elegant chamber with Thames views from the window tables has yet to regain the lustre it enjoyed before the hotel relaunched in the noughties. It’s not devoid of fans, but too often its cooking (of mainly fish and seafood) is critiqued for being “overpriced (and in some cases overcooked or over-sauced)”. Sceptics say Big Sweary’s name above the door is a saving grace – “if it wasn’t a Ramsay restaurant they’d struggle”. Top Tip – a good choice for a posh brek.

“Amazing grass-fed” USDA prime steaks (hand-cut and dry-aged for 28 days) are the USP of this NYC-based brand, whose London outpost has a Manhattan-esque location, on the ground floor of the landmark Adelphi Building, just off the Strand. No-one doubts the quality of the offering, and the odd reporter had their best meal of the year here (“amazing!”). But the level of value is a perennial issue and even a fan who rated their visit as “outstanding” noted: “the price is high… everyone seems to be either on holiday or on expenses!”

“You know that you’ll get a decent meal” at these “unpretentious” ‘Fishmongers & Restaurants’ in Covent Garden, Marylebone and off Piccadilly, where you can buy retail from the wet counter or proceed to eat in at the adjoining dining room. “A wide variety of fish and seafood can be cooked to your specification” and “it’s the perfect place for some nice, simple cooking”. Any drawbacks? The food is “good but rather unimaginative”; “ambience is a little lacking; and the service level is not as good as could be”.

“Our favourite seafood place in central London”, chorus the many fans of this appropriately named outfit “in the touristic area of Covent Garden” – “I love this place for the location, the energy and the super-fresh dishes” (“there’s no greater fun than wrestling with a crab” here or the oysters and lobster!). “Attentive staff” and a “lively, unpretentious atmosphere” are part of the appeal, and the “quick service helps if you’re on the way to the theatre”. Any negatives? It “may be a bit cramped”, with an “interior that’s a bit stark for some”.

A “great concept, expertly delivered” – the two headline dishes are served up in posh, comfortable diner style at this nine-strong London group (with another dozen branches around the world). As a gimmick it doesn’t generate the buzz it once did, but both of the main dishes receive a good rep in feedback, in particular the “excellent and good-sized lobster” (and “for lobster it’s not that expensive”).

“Pre or post-theatre, very much a favourite over many years” – this elegant seafood bar was added adjacent to the main restaurant fifteen years ago, and its more laid-back style means it’s tailor-made for a luxurious bite and glass of fizz. That said, it’s become “quite pricey” over time, and doesn’t have quite the dazzling golden glow of yesteryear.

“A wonderful oasis of civilisation in the middle of tatty, tourist London” – Richard Caring’s “confident”, “old-school” Theatreland “icon” (est. 1896) hides behind intriguing etched-glass windows in an unpromising alleyway between St Martin’s Lane and the Charing Cross Road. A “seafood lovers’ mecca”: it’s yet again voted as London’s No. 1 destination for fish in our survey, and also – for the umpteenth year – the most commented-on restaurant in our annual diners’ poll. “If you want gourmet preparations, you need to go elsewhere” – the straightforward cooking includes “no bells and whistles” and the focus is on “really well-executed traditional dishes” (such as their celebrated fish pie; “excellent Dover Sole off the bone”; or “perfectly pan-fried King scallops”). It occupies a series of “old world, cosy, crowded dining rooms with photos of celebrity guests adorning the wood-panelled walls” and it’s “always a civilised pleasure to eat here”. “Patchy service” has sometimes been a concern post-Covid, but its rating rebounded noticeably this year and, all said, it’s judged as being “first-class”.

“A very good fish selection with great daily offerings” and “excellent seafood” win very many nominations for these ever-popular fish-and-seafood bistros in Borough Market, Battersea Power Station and South Kensington. All offer a “pleasant experience”, with an appealing “casual” ambience, “friendly” staff and very “reliable” standards. In particular, SW8 has a “terrific location – right by the Power Station and the boat landing! – Step off and step straight inside!”

“Amazingly fresh and beautifully cooked fish, plus great chips” is the straightforward offer at this family-run stalwart in the heart of Borough Market, which has plenty of outdoor seating for warmer months. Gripes? “Deserts are a little average”. The family also run La Gamba tapas bar along the river at the Festival Hall.

With “a varied and interesting menu of fish and seafood” – this “light and buzzy” glass-fronted modern fish restaurant satisfies most diners as “a good pitstop amidst the hum of Borough Market” – although there are persistent gripes that it’s “just not imaginative enough for the prices, exploiting the tourist location”. Top Tip – “nice for a team dinner (when the madding crowds have gone)”.

“I was blown away by the quality of the fish on my first visit” – this “tiny tiled fish restaurant” in Covent Garden “punches well above its weight” and is one of the most popular bets in our annual diners’ poll in the area. It also boasts a “great wine list” (it shares ownership with nearby wine bar 10 Cases). Despite all its virtues, though, it’s “very tight for space” – “some tables are bar tops with stools, although there are a few tables with chairs/banquettes (and on the pavement if it‘s not too cold)”.

Hang with a “smart, interesting-looking set of diners” at Costas Spiladi’s luxurious Greek venture in St James’s – part of his international chain, whose 10 other branches include three in NYC, as well as outlets in Miami, Athens and Dubai. It aims to evoke the brilliant blue waters of the Med and showcases an “excellent” array of fish and seafood on glittering counters of ice, where you choose your catch and specify how it’s to be prepared. On the downside, service can be “variable” and it is – predictably – “very expensive”.

“‘Unchanged by time’ defines Sweetings” – in a quiet way, “one of London’s iconic restaurants”, although its clientele is almost exclusively made up of City brokers who have sustained it on its current site by Mansion House tube since the 1920s (it was founded elsewhere in the 1830s). “Unchanged service (efficient and friendly); unchanged team (some of whom – like the loyal customer base – are unchanged from the last century); unchanged atmosphere in the last 50 years” at least. Arrive by noon if you want to beat the traders to a seat at the small counter or sit in the dining room. “Superb fish” is “cooked simply and well in the English grilled style”. “Kick off with the modestly priced pint of Black Velvet served in a pewter tankard. Try a half-dozen really fresh oysters with a lovely red onion and red vinegar dressing (you can almost hear the sea!). Follow with the fried plaice, homemade tartar sauce and new potatoes in butter”. “Perfect”. “It’s not cheap” but “thank goodness it’s still there”.