St Andrews, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

“The food is old-school class and the wine list a bit of a joy…”, indeed “all aspects of the experience are superb” at Geoffrey & Katherine Smeddle’s tastefully revamped old inn, which sits a few miles’ drive from the coast and golf courses of nearby St Andrews. Its culinary renown has lasted for many decades now – initially under David & Patricia Wilson and under the Smeddles since 2006. You are not prisoner to a tasting menu here, with a sensibly priced à la carte, although one is available (six courses for £125 per person). Between the various options, numerous diners in our annual poll acclaim it for their best meal of the year.

MasterChef: The Professionals winner “Jamie Scott is one of the UK’s finest unsung chefs” (setting aside that 2014 honour), say fans of the restaurant-with-rooms he launched with wife Kelly in 2016; “the wonderful food together with the young, local but knowledgeable serving team” make for a winning combination and “a window seat looking over the Tay estuary is a bonus” (indeed, the room has “some of the best-ever views”).

Chef James Ferguson and partner Alethea Palmer relaunched this country pub about five years ago and it’s acquired quite a reputation (and received a glowing review from The Scotsman’s Rosalind Erskine in November 2023). Our feedback is also good if slightly more mixed: fans say it’s “simply fantastic” with “a relaxed atmosphere, plenty of space between tables and a sunny garden; not to mention excellent cooking with robust, delicious flavours using much local produce including seafood”. One critic, though, found the menu “hit ’n’ miss” and another reported some friction having “dared to criticise” a dish.