St Martin's, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

A “real bright light in an otherwise scrappy pedestrian high street”, this polished and “very well-run” hotel dining room takes the original name of the hotel that stood here back in 1892 and brings a rare fine dining option to the centre of Canterbury; add in “wonderful” cocktails, and it’s “a treat” for its many local fans.

“Back to its very best since chef-owner Dev Biswas closed his other venues in Rye and Margate” (and “changed the name of this venue from Ambrette to The Cook’s Tale”, in homage to Chaucer). The “busy” and well commented-on fine diner offers an “alternative take on Indian cuisine” (albeit now also featuring that popular staple, curry, for the first time) and the results are “exceptional” and “good value”, whether you opt for the tasting menu or “adventurous” sets, both of which boast hyper-local sourcing and “Kentish touches”.

“Each time we come we are impressed by the attention to detail and outstanding quality of the food at this well-regarded gastropub” – Daniel & Natasha Smith purchased this “beautiful old pub on the River Stour” in 2017 and has become one of the most commented-on venues outside the capital in our annual diners’ poll. “The style of cuisine is that of fine dining with locally sourced produce and the flavours bring out the best in the ingredients”. “Tables are well-spaced and the staff certainly know their stuff” – “incredible value”. Top Tip – “Lovely wisteria-covered terrace by the river on a sunny day”.

This old drovers’ inn just outside Canterbury is “very atmospheric and comfortable, but the food is truly the star” – “really well executed but not overly fussy” and “a real dining treat”. Former Clove Club chef Daniel Smith and his wife Tasha, herself a pastry chef, have settled in the village and created a “chilled pub with food that surprises” with its excellence. They also run the nearby Fordwich Arms. Top Menu Tip – “best lobster and chips ever”.

Four miles from Canterbury, this much-commented-on manor house is part of the now ten-strong Pig litter (the latest porcine offering, in Stratford-upon-Avon, is due in 2024) and “does not disappoint”. The “buzzy” dining room – “like a large potting shed, its walls lined with preserved vegetables and pulses” – backdrops “lovely” gastrofare, and “in summer you can eat casually and drink in the garden” at their new ‘Garden Oven’, focusing on wood-fired snacks. On the downside, as at others in the chain, a minority of reports characterise its cooking as “pleasant, but nothing special”.

This “lovely gastropub in a pretty Kent village” wins praise for its “good menu selection, including unusual dishes like homity pie” alongside the more standard burgers, steak and fish ’n’ chips. It is part of Saga heir Josh De Haan’s Pickled Egg pub group.

2023 Review: The dining room “upstairs in a rickety old pub, with wonderful views over Whitstable Bay”, offers a “good mix of innovative food” – including “beautifully cooked fish” – “and homemade pub classics, served by staff from the kitchen on the floor below”. “Eaten there many times: the ambience is excellent and always found the food good”.

“Pretty much my idea of gastronomic heaven”: Stephen Harris’s “tricky-to-get-to old-looking pub” represents “a friendly and pleasurable approximation of perfection” for its enormous fan club and – as one of the top-5 most commented-on destinations in our annual diners’ poll – is viewed by many as “simply the best pub-orientated restaurant in the UK”. Set out on the salt marshes by the Thames just outside Whitstable, “don’t be fooled by the external décor” (which makes it look like any old seaside pub). Inside, it “still retains its original charm” and its unforced style makes it “a place to return to on a regular basis”. “The local produce mirrors its estuary-side position”, with each “simple but magnificent” component of the five-course menu “representing the best of the locality at that time of year”. “The cooking itself is a revelation” with “prodigious attention to flavour” and the most often-cited offerings including excellent fish, oysters and lamb (including, of course, the signature slip soles). “The wine list reflects the tastes of the Patron who only lists wines that he would choose to drink himself”. “Many pilgrims make the journey but you have to book months in advance”. “A joy to visit before or, preferably, after a bracing walk on the beach” (and with it being “just a short step to their delightful self-catering cabins, what could be more romantic?)”

Fans are “sad to hear that the Pitchfords are selling up” when it comes to this village restaurant with rooms – run by David and Rona Pitchford since 1977 and “a go-to for special family events” for many in this part of Kent. “The menu is conservative but the food always of a very high standard”, with items such as ‘A Prawn Cocktail the way we used to do it back in when we opened’. It went on the market for £3m in April 2023, but we’ve left its rating untouched in the hope that any purchaser maintains its “traditional excellence” – “always, a treat especially the soufflés”.

2023 Review: This low-key daytime-only wholefood eco-store and café (with Thursday evening ‘supperclub socials’) started out 10 years ago as a pop-up street stall and now occupies a century-old joinery workshop in a mews. The “hearty” breakfasts, light bites and lunches win consistently good ratings.

This Grade II listed Georgian pub near Oare Marshes Nature Reserve is “a lovely spot on a warm day to sit and enjoy lovely grub on the outdoor terraces” – “while it does not outshine its near neighbour The Sportsman, it’s cosy, well run, with excellent food and great service – all without having to book weeks in advance and much easier on the wallet”. It has seen “a resurgence in the standard of cooking under new management” – experienced ex-Londoners Tom Gravett & Renny Peret.

2021 Review: Afternoon tea at this deluxe Elizabethan country house hotel can be a “great experience in beautiful surroundings”. Other aspects of the trip, however, “don’t always live up to the ambience”.

2021 Review: “Great food” and “a beautiful setting with stunning views” are found at this 200-year-old former village pub, converted 10 years ago into a boutique hotel. Now under the same ownership as the nearby Hythe Imperial, it has reverted to its original name – and “the food and service have got better”.

“A real treat of a place” – this stylish restaurant was opened five years ago by a talented pair, Kent-born chef Allister Barsby (head chef at Gidleigh Park on Dartmoor at 24) and Italian Alice Bussi (food & beverage manager of the year in the 2018 Catey awards). The praise is unanimous: “we go when there’s something to celebrate. We’ve been three times over the last few years and it has never failed to be a joy – the food is fabulous and the service and front of house exceptional”. “One of the most amazing dinners I have had, in a very serene environment with exceptional service”.

This “lovely little pub” on the high street has had quite the history: it was long under John Matthews, owner of Thompson & Son brewery; in 2016, his great-grandson Christopher Hicks took over, and has transformed it into a very stylish hotel replete with Emin artworks and a tandem bicycle for guests. The “really good, mostly local produce” is “beautifully done” and features an “excellent value lunch” as well as popular Scandi-style breakfasts.

2021 Review: With its “deep red walls, low lighting and candles”, this “romantic” basement dining room has a “lovely, old-fashioned and cosy ambience, and is decorated with framed covers of old editions of Empire magazine”. Craig Mather’s modern British menu focuses on “unfussy dishes, where the local seasonal ingredients are the star”, in particular “fish that comes straight from the small boats which ply the harbour”.

This “lovely seafood restaurant” is a “good find in Margate”, with an “extensive and varied menu” that features fresh oysters and “delicious seafood platters” but also “includes local meat and vegetarian options”. “Staff couldn’t be friendlier” and “the whole experience is very enjoyable”.