Stafford, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

2023 Review: A “smart hotel” with its own lake set in the Staffs countryside, where the “cosy restaurant serves good value food using local produce”. Tuesday night is grill night – on other evenings steaks and pub classics feature on the menu alongside somewhat fancier fare.

2023 Review: You’re “always guaranteed a superb meal” from “a favourite top chef” – Liam Dillon (who has worked for the likes of Marcus Wareing and Tom Sellers) – at the “great pub” he has converted into an ambitious restaurant, with 4- and 6-course tasting menus in the evening and a chef’s table option.

“You are served in a large dining room under a giant moon” in this striking eatery – a centrepiece of the World of Wedgwood – which was added to this factory-visit and museum experience in late 2021. Named for a seventeenth-century dining club filled with luminaries of the Midlands Enlightenment, and overseen by local lad Niall Keating (who left behind two Michelin stars to take up the opportunity), it brings a pleasing level of ambition to underserved Staffs and The Potteries. There’s a relatively affordable à la carte menu, or an eight-course tasting menu for £120 per person. Given that its mere presence is a minor miracle in the area, it’s not hard to be bowled over and it delivers “frequently excellent dishes – often containing luxury ingredients, formally but attentively and helpfully served, if in a space that is perhaps a little large to feel completely at home in”. On the flip-side, even those who think it “very good” can still find it “overpriced”.

“Getting a booking is no mean feat” at Tom Shepherd’s “absolutely brilliant” operation – a “bright and crisp” 28-cover space “above his father’s jewellery shop” which in two short years has established itself as one of the Midlands’ most celebrated culinary destinations. “If you do, you will be rewarded with exciting and original cooking” with dishes that are “thoughtful in their concept, prepared meticulously and served beautifully”. BREAKING NEWS – In September 2023, Tom announced a second, more informal venture in the city (‘we’re going to open up with the mindset of small plates, drinks orientated, and the small plates will develop so you can almost have your own tasting menu’).