Stoke D'abernon, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

The Rarebreed Dining Group’s boozer is far from your regular beast: the in-house butchery and smokery turns out “excellent” meaty cuts including chateaubriand, t-bone or sous-vide sirloin; in August they also run an outdoor cinema if you’d like some celluloid after your steak.

From a growing popular chain of ‘no membership’ clubs, this comfortable venue has a bar, lounge, orangery and terrace, along with “fun” all-weather igloos on the roof, in which to graze on a pretty standard all-day menu of Italian-inspired dishes, including pizza and pasta. Not a culinary fave rave, but handy for many occasions.

“A great addition to the local Oxshott/Cobham area” – this smartly converted pub in the heart of the plush commuter belt from chef Matt Larcombe and front-of-house Simon King is universally applauded for standards that are a cut above in all respects. But even fans note that “while superb, it’s definitely on the pricey side”, to the extent some consider it “expensive for what it is”. Top Menu Tip – “good and varied wine list”, with one or two trophy vintages (at well over £1,000 per bottle).

2023 Review: “Good solid food” and a “large outdoor space for eating” makes this country pub a handy refuelling spot for visitors to the RHS gardens at nearby Wisley.

Food TV staple José Pizarro’s first outfit outside the capital – and first gastroboozer (with rooms) – is set in “a not-completely-obvious location” in the Surrey ‘burbs. Reviews were slightly muted this year: while most praised the “great modern Spanish food” (including “fabulous tapas”), others noted a lack of atmosphere (“wouldn’t be hard to make it feel a bit more intimate”).

2021 Review: A refurbishment/relaunch a few years ago added to the charms of this good all-round boozer, handy pre- or post catching the nags at Sandown Park, whose food was consistently well-rated last year.

“How nice to have a decent restaurant to round off your visit to the RHS gardens”, with a “short menu of good-quality food” in “attractive surroundings”. Wisley can get enormously busy, though, and service can struggle to cope with the sheer numbers.