Strand, British, Traditional Restaurant Guide

“What’s not to like about the oldest restaurant in London?” – in continuous operation on the same Covent Garden site since 1798. Of course, it’s “popular with tourists”, but its “quintessentially British” style makes it an “old favourite” for many Londoners too, and it provides “a beautiful, traditional experience”. The atmosphere of the beautiful dining room is “exceptional” and the “old school cuisine, with an emphasis on meat and game”, is very dependable; and backed up by an “extensive, if quite expensive wine list”. Top Menu Tip – “lovely steak ’n’ kidney pie”.

“A secret, below-ground escape from the mayhem of Leicester Square” for more than half a century – this “well-hidden”, “old-school” wine bar has “only got better” over the years, first under founder Don Hewitson and latterly under Will Clayton. Top Menu Tip – “share the ham and cheese pie (it is absolutely enormous)”, and has sold around a million portions since 1971.

A two-month closure facilitated a ‘Gatsby makeover’ this year at this elegant and famous grill room, which for the last 20 years has been part of Gordon Ramsay’s culinary empire. (It now incorporates a chef’s table, and a walnut wood-lined wine experience room for eight). With its Beef Wellington, Dover Sole and Lobster Thermidor – plus also a selection of steaks from now de rigueur charcoal grill – fans say it’s “superb all round for celebrating that special occasion”. Doubters, though, continue to focus on its “extortionate prices and very uninspired menu in this newly redecorated Art Deco space”.

This legendary temple to roast beef (opened in 1828) closed in March 2020 and has yet to re-open. In August 2023, the Savoy (of which it’s a part) auctioned off many of the antiquities relating to the site, including fireplaces, furniture, crockery and its renowned carving trolleys. It has also posted on its website its ‘intention to announce a re-opening date in 2024’. Clearly it will be a new non-heritage-based departure for this famous name, so, watch this space.

A “long-established cafeteria” in the beautiful, brick-vaulted crypt of St Martin-in-the-Fields that’s a useful venue for daytime and pre-theatre refuelling – “cheap and tasty and near the National Gallery”. In summer, they open a ‘Café in the Courtyard’, too.

“A glorious spot for a boozy seafood bite, watching Soho stroll past” – this “always busy” and “buzzy” venue was converted over 25 years ago from an atmospheric old butcher’s shop (est 1911) and oozes quirky Edwardian charm. Perch on a stool, and “exuberant staff” will serve you fizz and “expert fish dishes” (“simple, but cooked beautifully – fruits de mers, oysters, pints of prawns”). “It’s not the most comfortable time, but worth it for the quality of the food and general ambience”. “Long live R&A”.

For a “good solid business lunch” it remains recommendable, but otherwise reports are uneven regarding this grand hotel’s ‘British brasserie’, where traditional pies are a big menu feature: the least enthusiastic diners feel it’s “disappointing, since it is supposed to be a five star”.

“If your date is going badly here, it’s not destined to be” at this “gorgeous”, candle-lit Soho townhouse – one of the capital’s prime destinations “for a tête-a-tête lunch or smoochy dinner”. “All bare wood, nooks, and snugs”, it is “very tightly packed” and down-to-earth and for its legions of fans captures “just what I want from a restaurant. OK, the setting could be more comfy, but it has a superb vibe”, “amenable” and “charming” service, and “British seasonal food with a twist” that’s not aiming for fireworks but which is “always reliable”. Crucially, all this is backed up by “a short wine selection that’s second to none and at absolutely outstanding prices”. Andrew Edmunds himself unexpectedly passed away in September 2022, but the business (now run by his family) “continues to honour his legacy”: “I’ve been coming here since the 90’s and I’m so glad the team have carried on without Andrew – the place goes from strength to strength”.

With the “lovely decor” replicated from the Theatreland icon for which they are branded, Richard Caring’s “always buzzy” spin-offs have found a gigantic audience nationally. But “these places live off the name for sure” and “it’s the ambience that keeps them going” – while fans say the food is “reliable”, more sceptical types dismiss it as “conveyor-belt cooking”; and say service is merely so-so. Some branches are better than others: best in London is ‘Chelsea Garden’, which has the same “distinctly average” standards as the others, but reliably offers an “uplifting” atmosphere and “great people watching” (and “on a sunny afternoon there is literally NO WHERE ELSE TO BE but its large garden. HEAVEN!!”). Also worth mentioning is the outlet by The Thames in SE1: “excellent views of Tower Bridge”, “even better if outside in summer and convenient for The Bridge Theatre”.