Thelwall, British, Modern Restaurant Guide

2023 Review: Ex-Manchester House chef, Aiden Byrne’s attractive pub is cutely situated opposite said St Mary’s Church in one of the scenic commuter towns on the Cheshire/Greater Manchester borders. Steaks, burgers, pies and the likes of lobster and chips typify its quality gastrofare; and they also serve pizza and snacks from their garden ‘shack’.

2021 Review: South African-born chef Ernst van Zyl and partner Liz Kellett have taken over (and substantially refurbished) this Warrington pub, which opened at the end of 2018. This new place has 60 covers, five rooms and a huge beer garden. Scant survey feedback as yet, but based on his previous gaff – The Lord Clyde in Kerridge – there’s reason to hope for notably accomplished food in this village pub.

“An excellent local restaurant with talent in the kitchen (Miarisuz Dobies) and professional front of house” (his wife); regulars are “never disappointed” by the French- and Central European-inflected food (including five- or seven-course tasting menus), with “every detail wonderful and made in-house”.

“Fantastic food” has been a consistent refrain of guests at Patrick Hannity’s West Didsbury brasserie for more than 35 years – many of whom return again and again – “we only go on my birthday (due to distance) but it’s the meal I most look forward to each year”. The modern British cooking with European touches is always up-to-date on seasonality, and in 2008 Patrick became one of the first restaurateurs to invest in his own smallholding to provide ingredients for the kitchen. “The fixed-price menu (weekday lunch and early evening) is fairly short on options but reliably high on quality” – and at £16 per person for two courses or £20 for three represents tremendous value.

2022 Review: “An amazing bar and signature cocktails” are hailed in early reports on this two-year-old haunt in the characterful arches beneath Manchester Central station, from the people behind the successful Manchester Gin brand. Though its selection of small plates is not the main point, nor is it an afterthought.

“Spectacular views over the Manchester city skyline and beyond” can make this “slick” D&D London operation “a breathtaking venue (but don’t look down – the clue is in the name)”. Fans also hail its “well-prepared” modern brasserie dishes, but for such a landmark venue, reports remain surprisingly limited, so we’ve maintained last year’s conservative food rating.

TV chef James Martin’s over-18s-only, industrial-chic flagship shares a home in the historic Great Northern Warehouse with Manchester235 Casino; the location is “slightly odd”, to be fair, “but once you’re seated in the restaurant you forget about it” – and can focus on the “absolutely delicious food” (be it an “excellent tasting menu” or slap-up afternoon tea).

With the “lovely decor” replicated from the Theatreland icon for which they are branded, Richard Caring’s “always buzzy” spin-offs have found a gigantic audience nationally. But “these places live off the name for sure” and “it’s the ambience that keeps them going” – while fans say the food is “reliable”, more sceptical types dismiss it as “conveyor-belt cooking”; and say service is merely so-so. Some branches are better than others: best in London is ‘Chelsea Garden’, which has the same “distinctly average” standards as the others, but reliably offers an “uplifting” atmosphere and “great people watching” (and “on a sunny afternoon there is literally NO WHERE ELSE TO BE but its large garden. HEAVEN!!”). Also worth mentioning is the outlet by The Thames in SE1: “excellent views of Tower Bridge”, “even better if outside in summer and convenient for The Bridge Theatre”.

“A first-class experience we look forward to with each visit” – this Deansgate outpost of what’s nowadays an international chain provides a stylish destination, owing to its location in a late- Victorian courthouse, with plenty of interesting reclaimed décor (including glazed bricks from a Liverpool public lav). “Tender and delicious” meat is, of course, the calling card, but you’ll also find some “very tasty” non-carnivorous options too (an expanding range of fish; and “even as a vegetarian I love Hawksmoor”). But while all reports rate it well, it didn’t inspire any full-on rave reviews this year.

“This old Salford pub has risen from the dead” following its long-time closure after a fire; “the fine Victorian building now has a brilliantly designed dining area incorporating much glass, and opening onto a garden with tables”, but it’s also a proper boozer too. Chef Ben Chaplin’s food ranges from “excellent pub grub” to more ambitious fare and “service and ambience are both wonderful”.

“Such a wonderful experience” – this famous Grade II listed chamber has been at the heart of the City’s dining culture for over a century (Charles Rolls first met Henry Royce here in 1904 before going on to found Rolls Royce). Under chef Adam Reid’s ten-year stint, it has yet to recapture the Michelin star (the city’s first) that it lost in 1975, but his twelve-course tasting menu (for £130 per person, £145 per person on Saturday night) is consistently rated as “good” to “outstanding” in our annual diners’ poll. Top Menu Tip – “wonderful afternoon tea with a glass of bubbly; a massive choice of tea and coffee (bottomless) and really good selection of savory and sweet treats” served in the nearby ‘Tea Room’, overlooking St Peter’s Square.

2021 Review: “You would not realise you are in Moss Side” at the Whitworth’s “beautiful” and “family-friendly” glass-walled conservatory, overlooking Whitworth Park. Its location (above all) and victuals make it an “excellent place for lunch”, with the “three daily changing salads particularly recommended”.

Gary Usher’s “slick, very smart” operation was the best performing member of his well-known Elite Bistros chain this year in our annual diners’ poll. “Fundamentally a traditional bistro (whatever that might be these days?), but here it’s kind of different, with locally sourced ingredients assembled with care and consistency. Presentation of dishes is without pretension, as is the service, which is efficient and attentive. Kala has a lot going for it!” Top Tip – “good value lunch”.

A true “gem” – this “recently reopened Manchester institution” dates back to 1868, when it was founded by Sam Studd (whose brother Tom had opened nearby Tom’s Chop House a year before), and later became L.S. Lowry’s favourite watering hole. It serves a menu of “traditional British staples that are actually quite hard to find done well, as they are here”. Top Menu Tip – “the corned beef hash is a must-try-before-you-die dish”.

“This excellent small restaurant is not to be missed” – “a gem hidden in plain sight on Great Ancoats Street”. “The menu changes frequently and is driven by seasonal locally sourced produce and the passions of Kevin and Rachel Choudhary”. “It’s a relaxing space, an oasis full of potted plants and herbs, where conversation is easy, portions are generous, and dishes combine traditional ideas and concepts with innovative contemporary additions”.

This splendid 1811 pub with upstairs restaurant has been rescued as part of the ongoing redevelopment of Ancoats, winning praise for its “brilliant pub food”, plus “good beer and wines” and an “awesome Sunday lunch!”

“Definitely one of the stars of the buzzing Ancoats scene… in fact, the Manchester scene overall” – “a minimalistic interior sets the scene for simple but brilliantly executed dishes designed for sharing” at this low-key zeitgeisty hit: the most commented-on destination in the city in our annual diners’ poll this year. “The highly professional kitchen team are at the top of their game providing fare which is as clever as it is straightforward” (e.g. “the best bread and potato dishes I’ve ever had!”). Aided by its “very helpful” approach to service: “it’s the kind of place you wish was in your neighbourhood. Small plates and a natural (but not too funky) list of wines make it as good a place as any you will find to spend a couple of hours when in Manchester”.

“Simply the best” – Simon Martin’s Ancoats superstar continues to maintain the “outstanding all-round” form that secured its place in the history books in 2019 when it carried back to Manchester the city’s first Michelin star since 1977. “Sublime dishes are cooked with invention and precision” by the squadron of chefs put on display by the open kitchen (you can walk between workstations as the chefs are plating up). They deliver a £195 per person tasting menu, although you can fight the cost-of-living crisis with a cut-down version at £95 per person. Combinations are clever and each dish is intricately crafted. The contemporary space it occupies – at the foot of a modern block – is also full of drama, with a very high ceiling and huge windows.