Warlingham, French Restaurant Guide

“A new chef has arrived but standards are maintained” at David Moore’s hallowed Fitzrovia townhouse, which has remained in London’s top culinary ranks ever since it first launched in 1991 despite numerous changes of personnel, the latest incumbent at the stoves being chef Phil Kearsey, appointed in May 2024. With the option of a forward-looking plant-based menu, it provides a “great experience for all types of diner” (“we had a mix of omnivores, pescatarians, vegetarians and vegans and the tasting menu catered for us all”). “Service is attentive and the sommelier always happy to chat”. Over the years, the limited space has been carefully refitted and designed, and it suits most occasions: “if you need a restaurant to perform for you, try Pied à Terre”.

“Excellent for an informal French meal at very affordable prices” – this Gallic pair are the creation of Lyon-born Aurelia Noel-Delclos, who named them after her food-loving grandmother. With its “child-friendly menu” and “well-designed bistro-brasserie ambience”, the newer Victoria branch has overtaken the site in the touristic heart of old Covent Garden market in popularity. Don’t expect the earth – they serve “reasonable, bistro-type fare”.

“A high-quality find on a suburban parade!” – a “comfortable and highly competent neighbourhood gem” that’s 10 minutes walk from Surbiton station; and which has long been a “mainstay” of sophistication for many local residents. “Eric Guignard in the kitchen provides excellent cuisine and first-class service is overseen by Sarah, his wife”. Other key features are a “very good wine list with a wide selection of reasonably priced as well as special bottles” and “a set lunch that’s outstanding value for food of this quality”. (“I‘ve been coming here for 20+ years and TFT is consistently brilliant with Eric and Sarah remaining at the very top of their game and continuing to develop the great food and wine they offer”).

“A truly epic wine list” (almost 2,000 bins), “with virtually all options available by the glass” – and including some “lovely, mature vintages” – is the special appeal of this Parisian import, which occupies a traditionally smart corner-site in Fitzrovia, across the square from the back of John Lewis. The modern French cuisine that provides a foil to the wine is in a fairly conventional mould but consistently well-rated.

“In the culinary void that seems to exist in the City”, Xavier Rousset & Gearoid Devaney’s venue is one of the few places that “rarely fails to deliver” when it comes to a high-quality meal and – “especially for this location – provides a great blend of decent food, wine, and particularly service” (“amicable and timely without being overpowering”). “Excellent food in the French style” is overseen by executive head chef Edward Boardland and ownership by two master sommeliers results in a “superb, heavily Burgundy-facing wine list” that’s also “reasonably priced”. Top Tip – “very knowledgeable sommelier as you’d expect, but the team are equally accepting if you BYO” and “corkage is reasonable too!”

“An unfailing choice, near Barts” – Pascal Aussignac’s & Vincent Labeyrie’s homage to gutsy Gascon cuisine and wine opened in 1998 in an idiosyncratic and grand marble-walled former Lyons Tea House near Smithfield Market. It’s now one of London‘s longest established temples of French gastronomy, but chef Pascal has lightened and modernised his cuisine over the years (and foie gras – once omnipresent – only makes the odd appearance on menus nowadays). There is a six-course tasting menu for £120, but also a much cheaper three-course version; and you can also eat here à la carte.

Looking for that “great, little, traditional French bistro in the heart of theatreland”? For many in our annual diners’ poll, this “family-run” venue where much of the seating is in an atmospheric brick-arched cellar is “a firm favourite”, helped by its “reasonable prices”: “we have been visiting for 20 years, celebrating birthdays and engagements as well as their Bastille day and Beaujolais special events – it feels like a home from home”. Don’t expect culinary fireworks, though – sometimes the food is “underwhelming” (“still, despite it being below par, because of the staff we enjoyed ourselves!)”

“Nothing changes, and it doesn’t need to” – at this “old-fashioned” French “hideaway” in Pimlico: “always a delightful experience” thanks to its “rustic” and “quirky” candle-lit setting (“you may need your phone torch to read the menu”), which every year ranks near the top of our annual diners’ poll as one of London’s top choices for a smoochy ‘dîner à deux’. Its “comforting, homely cooking” is “unashamedly French”, and essentially unchanged since circa 1964 (which is when it opened); service, similarly, is very Gallic and, for the most part, “utterly charming”. Top Tip – “particularly lovely in the summer: sitting outside, one could be in La Belle France”.

“If it was good enough for Queen Elizabeth II, it’s good enough for the rest of us!” – Gavin Rankin’s “very civilised, old school” brasserie in a cute Mayfair mews has a “lovely old-fashioned vibe” (and was one of the few restaurants in the UK in which the late Queen ever ate out). “Peaceful and very enjoyable”, it’s one of those rare dining rooms where jacket and tie are still the norm (although the dress code is an unwritten one). Staff are “utterly professional” and “predictably discreet”. “Start an evening with cocktails at the bar (next to the restaurant)” and then move next door for “classic French cuisine” that’s “lovely” but won‘t scare the horses. Top Tip – “the counter bar is also a great spot in which to have a posh fish finger sandwich!”

2024 Review: A “real favourite” of well-heeled foodies, this classy if relatively unsung Mayfair hotel dining room boasts in “William Drabble, the most underrated of chefs – and one of great longevity” after 15 years at the helm. There is an eight-course ‘Menu Gourmand’ (for £125), but also à la carte options (starting in the evening with a two-course meal for £82 – lunchtimes are cheaper).