Watford, Spanish Restaurant Guide

“So much more than just a tapas bar” – this basement hideaway at the foot of a handsome Georgian terrace, near picturesquely located St John-in-Hampstead church, boasts a serious and eclectic wine list and a focused menu of Spanish and Italian small and sharing plates.

With its airy dining room and cute garden, this popular old boozer – a spacious Victorian tavern overlooking Acton Green Common – might look an unlikely-seeming destination for “a lovely tapas lunch”. The idea of a Spanish-inflected menu has worked well for years, though, supplemented by some larger, more typical pub dishes, including Sunday roasts. The quality of the cooking can be variable, with the occasional complaint (“terrible paella!”) interspersed in reports of “very good Spanish food”.

This “enjoyable tapas” bar in Crouch End (sibling to Stokie’s Escocesa, see also) is suitably “cramped and authentic”, and for a dozen years has been “a handy spot to have on the doorstep, with a very good Spanish wine list, mostly available by the glass”. ‘Esteban’ was founded by Stephen Lironi, a Glasgow-born music producer, backed here by Spanish duo chef Pablo Rodriguez and manager Naroa Ortega. No complaints about the quality, although “the menu rarely changes”.

Charcuterie, sharing plates and dishes from the Josper grill provide a “delicious Italian/ Spanish mix” at this “lovely and buzzy” small outfit: worth discovering in a backstreet just around the corner from St Mary’s Church, Marylebone.

Twinned with Lurra across the road, this superior Marylebone bar/restaurant with an open kitchen serves “delicious” Basque-style tapas and pintxo dishes, including beef from both long-lived Rubia Gallega and Friesian cattle. The Spanish wine selection is carefully chosen with an emphasis on the Basque region – the whole idea for the venture came from their well-established wine import business.

“Top-notch” Basque cooking – “always of the highest quality” – again wins plaudits for this Seymour Village venture that celebrates its 10th anniversary this year. Whole turbot and large cuts of mature beef grilled over charcoal are the standouts on a very focused menu, while “the staff are amazing, friendly and flexible”. Sister venue Donostia (see also) nearby is a good bet for a lighter meal.

“Decent tapas for the price” – with “all the usual suspects (patatas bravas, padron peppers, tortilla, croquettas)” – win praise for this Hispanic quartet, now well into their second decade. These days the cooking is reckoned “competent”, if “not up to the earlier standards” – perhaps a reflection of improved competition. Top Menu Tip – “it’s worth checking out the vegetable dishes” (“with some left-field options for the adventurous; the beetroot with coffee was great!”)

“Counter seats are the best” at the Hart Bros’ “magical slice of Spain” – a “joyful” and thriving homage to Barcelona’s famous Cal Pep, which since its 2007 launch has steadily appeared near the top of our annual diners’ poll as one of London’s most popular restaurant groups. Its branches have multiplied, but – to a miraculous extent – the formula has stayed the same. “At the bar, it’s fun to watch the talented staff who were clearly enjoying their jobs, meticulously preparing the outstanding dishes”: “brilliant small plates, with plenty of choice” and “packed with authentic flavours” (“particularly strong on fish and seafood”); plus “an excellent range of sherries” and wines. But, while it’s maintained “impressive consistency over many years”, it can feel “like a bar experience at restaurant prices” nowadays, and its ratings drifted south of their usual peaks this year. There’s also the odd tale of caution in reports: “I’ve been almost every year since it opened. It’s still great fun and pretty good, but the last three visits have fallen below the super-high quality of the past”. Top Menu Tips – “love the Croquetes; the Cos salad with anchovy and crispy pancetta; and perfectly unctuous Tortilla”.

2023 Review: The vintage styling – that of a classic European café – is at odds with ever-more über-sleek Coal Drops Yard. Reports on Anthony Demetre’s all-day operation (named for the vermouth which is a feature of its drink offering) are still few, but suggest its well-sourced tapas, charcuterie and more substantial fare (including steak) can make it a handy refuge, from breakfast onwards (for which there’s a dedicated selection).

“A fun way to share and eat for a small group” – you BBQ your own meal at your table at the Hart Bros’ duo of Hispanic haunts in Borough Yards and Coal Drops Yard, which take their inspiration from the Spanish ‘parrilla’ or grill. You can also eat more conventionally in SE1, allowing the chefs to do the work for you, and since it opened in 2022 this has become the more highly rated branch. In N1, there’s the benefit of a large outside terrace “set under cover outside, but with overhead heaters and heated cushions so you don’t feel cold”. You might feel the chill when the bill arrives though, especially at the N1 original (“the menu looked good and the food was fine, but all I could think of was how expensive it was. £8.40 for two mini croquettes just overshadowed how tasty they were”).

“Everyone wanted to give the ambience a 6/5!” Few London eateries have as much drama as Peter Sanchez-Iglesias’s double-height Mexican venue, atop King’s Cross’s so-hip Standard Hotel, where huge floor-to-ceiling windows provide dramatic vistas of London… and that’s just from the toilets! You access via a red, pill-shaped lift creeping up the outside of the building to a gob-smacking view of the top of St Pancras Station opposite. Surprisingly, it doesn’t inspire quite as many positive ratings as one might expect, perhaps because it’s far-from-cheap. That said, its combination of tacos, Latino seafood and steaks (most of it grilled), all of them washed down with mezcal cocktails, was well rated this year. Top Tip – “visit before 6.30 pm Tue-Fri for the ‘Menu del Dia’ at £30 per person”.

2024 Review: “Reliable tapas in handy locations” is the USP of this 16-year-old trio with a flagship near King’s Cross station (by far the best known) and offshoots in Shoreditch and Monument. But while they’re “decent enough”, they offer “standard fayre” – it’s “nothing exceptional”.

“Fabulous tapas” as usual wins praise for this “stalwart of South Kensington” from Abel Lusa – one of his high-octane trio grouped together around Cambio de Tercio (see also) on the Old Brompton Road. Now in its 24th year, one or two regulars opine that it’s firing on all cylinders again after a “down patch”, with “new ideas” and a return to “the high standards they had before”.

“Unchanged over the years but still a Spanish star in west London with plenty of charm and a style all of its own” – Abel Lusa opened this high-quality Hispanic venture in South Kensington in 1995 and has maintained it as “a consistent performer” ever since. “If you love well-prepared Spanish food and wines, you’ll find both here” alongside “excellent and friendly” service. “In June and July each year it’s filled with tennis players” and both Nadal and Alcarez are well known to be major fans (eating here regularly with their families and ordering take-out during Wimbledon). As a result, Abel has developed pop-ups serving his food at major tennis championships around the globe.

2022 Review: “A wonderful menu with a good choice of tapas to suit all tastes” again wins recommendations for this buzzy and good-value bar on Goodge Street.

This quintet of tapas bars from the well-known Iberian food importer attracts most attention for its locations – in particular its “lively and popular” original bar at the entrance to Borough Market; and most recent addition: a “lovely riverside spot overlooking the Thames at Richmond”. Despite its renown – and some praise for its “small plates but big flavours” – ratings are held down by prices many reporters consider “high” for what’s widely seen as “pretty standard tapas fare”.

“A joy!” – paella cooked over a wood fire in the Valencian style, “so drier than some you may have had before” – is the headline attraction at this London outpost from superstar Spanish chef Quique Dacosta. But “sublime starters – beef cheeks, Atlantic squid and pork jowl” also really hit the spot on an “unexpected” menu. The location just off Oxford Street does little to attract custom, although it is a “good place to host in the private dining room”.