Watlington, French Restaurant Guide

“Enhanced by a pre-prandial stroll around the wonderful gardens”, a visit to Raymond Blanc’s “superlative” Oxfordshire property (actually he’s sold most of his stake to LVMH nowadays) is one of the biggest culinary treats in the country. Raymond is celebrating his 40th year in this picture-book 15th-century manor in a quiet corner of south Oxfordshire: one of the top-5 most commented-on venues outside London in our annual diners’ poll, it scored particularly strongly this year – the first full year in which head chef Luke Selby has had a full 12 months at the stoves in the lead-up. “Yes, the prices are eye-watering” – that’s noted every year – but practically all reporters this year feel “it’s worth the money” given its “culinary excellence”. “It is made even more special by the team: friendly, helpful and proud to be part of the Manoir experience”. “After a warm welcome, you are guided to the lounge for a drink and the menu before going to the table. Then on to the dining room before adjourning back to the lounge for coffee and petit fours”. The cuisine itself is “classical with flair”: you can eat a three-course à la carte meal for £205 per person, or a seven-course menu for £245 per person. “The finishing touches are what makes dining here such a pleasure” and those who stay over feel particularly well looked-after. (“The whole experience was simply sublime and rounded off our celebrations incredibly well. How do we celebrate our next anniversary so well?”).

This “fabulous” and “colourful” Chilterns gastroboozer “consistently delivers” – even well into its fourth decade in business. “Look out for the music nights” combining “imaginative pub food” with “live performances by artists far beyond what you’d expect from a rural pub” – but then again, this isn’t just any pub: it’s famously run by chef-proprietor Paul Clerehugh (ex-of glam rockers Sweet), and Kate Winslet hosted her wedding breakfast here.

“Is the Michelin Guide having a laugh” – incomprehension remains a key feature in feedback regarding the two-star status of this Thames Valley pub, whose elevation by the Red Guide in 2012 propelled chef-patron Tom Kerridge to media stardom. There’s no denying it does have its supporters, who say it’s “worth the drive” for “a brilliant experience with imaginative interpretation of pub food and a decent pint beforehand too”. But, given that it is one of the top-20 most commented-on destinations in our annual diners’ poll, it is striking that not a single reporter this year nominated it for their best meal of the year. More eye-catching are the one in three for whom it’s “too expensive by a mile”, with “variable” cooking and service that can seem “rushed”. In particular, a number of former fans just say it’s “not the restaurant it used to be”: “It’s a pub that wants to be a restaurant that wants to be a pub. Overpriced, overhyped. (Not sure why it is still relevant. Was great 12 years or so ago: now it’s just lost its momentum and identity)”. Top Tip – if you want to make up your own mind, a visit in the evening or Sunday lunch will set you back £175 per person. But the set weekday lunch is £48 per person for two-courses and £55 per person for three-courses. Quite a saving!

This “Reading institution” occupying an 18th-century tollhouse in the town centre has “had a few ups and downs over the last 25 years, but this year is back on top form with a solid menu and excellent service”. Self-taught chef owner Paul Clerehugh, a former rock guitarist with Sweet, also runs the Crooked Billet music pub in Stoke Row (see also).

This “long-standing favourite” a short walk from the city centre woos customers with a “wonderfully consistent bistro menu” of “genuine Gallic fare” offered at “a set price including lots of choice”. Exceptionally “good value for money” means guests are happy to overlook downsides, which include occasional “unfriendly service”, “cramped surroundings” and “hard wooden seats which could do with some cushioning”. These days a “really well run independent”, it split off from a national chain which collapsed in 1998.

Five-year-old French bistro in Summertown offering “a limited but well-executed menu”, alongside “delightful service and a warm and friendly ambience”. Chef-patron Pascal Wiedermann (ex-Racine, Terroirs and Six Portland Place), who runs it with his wife Laura, scatters his Gallic cuisine with touches from across Europe. Even fans, though, say “sometimes the food is excellent, but unfortunately it can be variable”. Top Tip – “look out for the early evening drink and snack offers”.

“A real find” – “take your date here and feel the love”, say fans of Antoine & Camille Chretien’s “ex-pub turned into an unexpected and excellent French restaurant” in the village nextdoor to superstar compatriot Raymond Blanc’s Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons – “the food is wonderful, the service superb and the dining room just spacious enough to be comfortable”. Top Tip – “look out for the value-for-money midweek ‘Deal Days’”.