Westminster, International Restaurant Guide

A mega new hotel for London sees the Old War Office on Whitehall – in which Winston Churchill made many of the most important decisions of World War II – being taken over by Raffles, no less (their first venture in Europe) and the Hinduja Group, to open in late 2023 as a new 125 bedroom property. It will have nine new restaurants, of which we list the five most notable individually: Café Lapérouse, Endo Kazutoshi, Langosteria, Mauro Colagreco and Paper Moon (see also). Other options include Mauro’s Table and a fine high-ceilinged brasserie called ‘Saison’ – which fall under the Colagreco umbrella – as well as The Drawing Room (lounge and all-day dining) and Guards Bar.

“Incredible flower displays” add to the airy and gracious style of this comfortable dining room, within the plush five star near Embankment station. Partly because of the fame of Kerridge’s next door, it has struggled over the years to raise its profile, but can be a handy option for a stately, high-quality West End setting. Top Top – in particular, “the set lunch is excellent value”.

2023 Review: “Love it… I always feel like a spy when I drink there…” – London’s oldest wine bar (est. 1890), near Embankment tube, is worth a visit for its “great interior” alone, with ancient brick-lined vaults, but it also boasts one of the capital’s biggest outside terraces. You no longer queue for the cold cuts, cheese and pies – they bring them to you with waiter service. The “excellent selection of wines” is by far the greater attraction.

“Ramuel Scully gets flavour out of ingredients like no one else” at his ambitious St James’s Market fixture, where he and his team serve a “wacky and interesting menu based on ferments and underused ingredients” from their open kitchen. Its ratings are not as stratospheric as when it first opened, due to the odd doubt that “the quality of foodstuffs can be lost in the plethora of flavourings”. But the balance of feedback this year was highly enthusiastic: “it’s my London go-to” with a “very different menu that changes enough to warrant a return”.

“On more than one occasion we have observed someone ‘popping the question’ here!” – the “magical” setting “never fails to impress” at this Covent Garden oasis, yet again voted London’s No.1 venue for romance in our annual diners’ poll. “Sitting in the conservatory is a joy, especially in good weather when the retractable roof is open” and its “most beautiful interior courtyard is tailormade for a date”. “The largely Provençal and Tuscan cuisine is good but the star of this show is the magnificent wine list, with choices from around the world and prices to suit all budgets. The only recommendation is to read the wine list at home in advance, otherwise you’ll spend the first hour ignoring your date!”.

2021 Review: “Set upstairs in the Café Royal” on its mezzanine level, this glitzy dining space is branded for French chef Laurent Tourondel. After its opening in mid-2018, both Giles Coren of The Times and Jay Rayner of The Guardian lined up to tear the place to shreds (“howling”, “shameful pricing”,…). Survey feedback regarding its steak and sushi formula is a little thin on which to rate a place of this calibre, but such reports as we have are, by contrast, upbeat: despite the odd warning of “not-so-experienced service” or a “pricey wine list”, they suggest it’s “very enjoyable”.

“Is there a better way to spend the afternoon?”, query fans of the “beautiful” foyer of this famous hotel – “a wonderful room with the piano playing and where the sandwiches just keep coming!” Supporters say “nothing can compare to the high level of cakes” and that service is “above par” too. Ratings are capped, though, by one or two more cautious reports, from those who “were expecting more of the tea” (too weak) and/or the victuals. When it comes to the music, there’s also some debate – “I hated the Disney tunes being played on the piano, although admittedly I was tempted to stand and join in when it moved on to Les Mis!”

“A well composed panoply of flavours from Southeast Asia” – curry puffs, crab dumplings, lobster, ox cheek Penang curry – have won a loyal following for Peter Lloyd’s South Bank fixture, and over time fans “have become enamoured, and no longer mourn the loss of RSJ” (which preceded on the site for over 20 years). “Nothing is extraordinary, but it is our current first choice pre the National Theatre”. He must be doing something right, as expansion is coming fast, with a sibling to open in July 2023 on the former site of Cantina del Ponte, RIP, with a large terrace overlooking Tower Bridge; and another in Islington later in the year.

A “Covent Garden staple” for 33 years, this “bustling French bistro with packed tables but speedy service” serves “good-value, reliably cooked traditional Gallic fare” that belies its somewhat touristy looks. Top Tip – “a wide-ranging menu and the set menus and special deals add to its appeal; and it’s a good choice for families with children”.

2021 Review: Opened in November 2018 on the site that long ago was the nightclub Pacha, this 400-cover food hall hosts eleven vendors, plus three bars and a coffee stop. “Variety is the key to its strength” and – as at many similar venues – “much of the food is better-than-OK but some is not excellent”. A West End branch is opening in late-2019; Fulham was the first, in the atmospheric former ticketing hall of the tube station. Top Tip – “very family friendly and you’re spoilt for choice”.

Little has changed at this “unstuffy” Pimlico bistro since it opened 60 years ago (except that, back then, a couple could eat here for under £3!). The original wooden panelling and furniture are still in place, the fish pie is still topped with piped potato, and pricing is still “cheap ’n’ cheerful”. It also does a “great Sunday lunch for the kids”.

For a “really good-value meal” (including a “pretty decent steak-frites”) “in the heart of the West End” it’s hard to beat this Soho brasserie. “The simplicity of the menu” and “wide variety of choices” mean “there’s something for everyone”, so it’s “a real go-to”, especially for its set-price lunch or pre-theatre deals.

Iré Hassan-Odukale and Jeremy Chan have won huge renown for their ‘haute’ interpretation of West African culinary themes, but this year saw very unsettled reports. Perhaps, in part, this owes to the disruption of a move to 180 The Strand, although the copper-hued, minimalist design there isn’t wholly at odds with the look and feel of the former location in St James’s Market. But to a large extent, this year’s themes are a continuation of last year’s; and complaints that seemed to set in after they jacked up their prices following all the Michelin and ‘World’s 50 Best’ accolades. True, some reports do acknowledge an “outstanding gastronomic experience” from the blind tasting menu which sees jollof rice and plantain jostling with luxury ingredients, foams and emulsions. But too many are mixed: “we had a couple of stunners, but a dish that was so bitter it was unpleasant. So expensive and given the unpredictability it makes Core look like a bargain…”; “really did not enjoy this. Dull atmosphere, combinations of food which just did not work and service not firing on all cylinders. First time I’ve ever not enjoyed a two-star restaurant…”; “was expecting something so special: it wasn’t!”

With its “unusual and interesting wines” (only 10 cases of each one are ordered, to ensure a steady turnover), “well complemented by delicious small bites to eat”, this is “the wine bistro you want in your street”. The fact that they can combine this with a “great, busy and bustling neighbourhood vibe in the middle of Covent Garden” is “simply astonishing”, making it both “a pre-theatre restaurant and a destination in its own right”.

“If you feel like a party this is a good place to come” – this lavish, foliage-filled Mayfair haunt ‘goes for it’ with its “live music, nice cocktails and lively ambience” and provides a “great setting” (including for romance). Fans say “the food is as good as the music” and applaud a “superb overall experience”. But there are also those – particularly who focus on the sushi and luxurious grills rather than the complete package – for whom it’s just far too overpriced.

As a “buzzy venue for the young, after-work crowd”, this JKS Restaurants food court at the foot of Centre Point does have its fans, who feel that as a “cheap ’n’ cheerful” option it’s “phenomenal, with such a great variety of street food to try all under one roof – ideal for big groups”. Ratings are undercut, though, by those who just find it “very noisy”, “pricey” and “average”. (In July 2023, JKS launched a second Arcade in the new Battersea Power Station complex, mixing brands from the original together with a new selection of offerings.)

This wood-panelled French brasserie with an “excellent fixed-price menu” of Gallic classics is particularly “useful in the location” – close to the Imperial War Museum in Kennington – and provides its own entertainment in the form of its upstairs jazz club.

“Buy your ticket and wait and see… the chefs give their all and I’ve never had a disappointing evening!” – typical feedback on this Fitzrovia venue, whose “signature is a rotating selection of outstanding chefs cooking at the top of their game, for just a few weeks at a time” from the open kitchen. “It is a showroom (or perhaps a labour exchange!) for the rising stars of international dining… often the room is full of extra affection and praise as the chef’s family or colleagues from past brigades offer enthusiastic support. The courses are skillful and generous, and stints reflect a wide range of global experience”. “It’s hard to compare the different chefs, but the standard generally is so high and service is very well done”.