Why should the newbies get all the attention? Three of London’s longer-serving restaurants are giving themselves (and their diners) a pat on the back as they notch up milestone anniversaries.

Pied à Terre, David Moore’s “perennially excellent” (Harden’s Survey) foodie mecca in Fitzrovia, celebrates its 25th anniversary with the return of Richard Neat, its founding partner who became the great lost chef of his generation (to UK diners at least) and has been based in Costa Rica since 2006. Neat will present an iconic 10-course tasting menu (7 courses at lunch) from September 5-10, featuring classic dishes from his back catalogue such as smoked foie gras with onion purée and braised pig’s head.

Meanwhile, Le Caprice, Richard Caring’s “so smooth” flagship behind the Ritz which “always makes you feel like a million dollars”, celebrates 35 years since its revival (the original opened in 1947 but closed down in 1975). Regulars have seen the ever-present Jesus Adorno rise from junior waiter to director in those 35 years.

Not to be outdone, Bentley’s, Richard Corrigan’s “classy and always fun” oyster bar and fish restaurant near Piccadilly Circus, celebrates its centenary this month by offering a five-course tasting menu with matching wines for what else but £100.