Channel 4 boss, Luke Johnson is famous for two things. In the City, he is known for making a great deal of money out of, inter alia, PizzaExpress. In foodie circles, he is best remembered – as recorded in reality-TV show Back to the Floor – for not being able to hack a week of real work in one of the kitchens of the Belgo restaurant group (of which he was chairman at the time). However, the most telling point arising from the TV show was that the Big Boss had seemingly never set foot inside the kitchen in which it was filmed, even though the headquarters of the Belgo group (only a few restaurants strong) was just five minutes’ walk away!
The evidence therefore suggests that Mr Johnson believes in management by spreadsheet, rather than driving by force of personality. Is he, then, the man to make a go of the revamped Atlantic, sorry Astor, Bar & Grill, near Piccadilly Circus? The question is particularly acute when Oliver Peyton – the over-celebrated, but undoubtedly high-profile previous tenant – left the building not on the best terms with his landlord.
We had not been to the Atlantic for years, but, despite the régime-change, the place still seems pretty much unchanged. Impressive Odeon-style surroundings, which are congenial if you like Art Deco. A huge bar. Welcoming staff. Oh, that is new. Staff at the Atlantic could be rude beyond belief. Now they seem to be trying quite hard. The same cannot be said about the food. This is dining seen as part of a Big Night Out, rather than seeking to make the food (arguably bar the 35 day-aged steaks) any sort of highlight. Whether this is good enough – now the place’s light-night bar is not the rare attraction it once was – we’re none too sure.
