Waving goodbye too quickly

Diners were disappointed to learn of two premature endings this week, with the closure of London risotto specialist All’Onda from first-time restaurateur Cordula Schluz (pictured) and the departure of veteran chef Simon Bonwick after 18 months at the Dew Drop Inn in Berkshire.

All’Onda (meaning ‘on the wave’), in Charlotte Street, Fitzrovia, only lasted for six weeks after opening in May – and was about to get a rave review from Jay Rayner in the Observer when it shut down suddenly.

A message was posted online saying: “We regret to inform you that due to unforeseen personal circumstances of the ownersALL’ONDA will be closing down permanently as of Tuesday 18.06.2024.”

Jay reported: “They had closed just two working days after my lunch there. It’s a crying shame. Chef Andrea Granzarolo’s risottos were as delicious as they were eye-poppingly beautiful and the £39 lunch menu was a steal for food of this quality. I wish Granzarolo and his whole team the best for whatever they do next.

Meanwhile, Simon Bonwick has announced that he and his son Charlie will cook their last meals at the Dew Drop Inn at Hurley, near Maidenhead in Berkshire, on 14 July – after an 18-month tenure that has been widely admired.

Simon has given no reason for their departure, saying: “We had a great laugh… [and] we leave the old girl in a strong position.

The Bonwick family ran the highly rated Crown in Burchett’s Green for more than 10 years, and Simon is said to be working on his second cookbook, covering pub cookery.

Share this article: