Margaret Thatcher may have abolished the GLC, but County Hall, its Edwardian Baroque former home, has proved more durable. The building now houses both a hotel and an aquarium, as well as other leisure ‘attractions’. These have never included a restaurant of any note.
The site reviewed today – in a former banqueting suite – has already seen off one occupant: a Chinese place, called Four Seasons. Undaunted, Ozu – which previously languished in a more obscure part of the same building – has spent a lot of money on a new woody fit-out, which is on the dull side of restful. It does have a great view of Big Ben, though.
It’s early days, but our party of five comprised the majority of the customers the lunchtime we visited. For a business bite, this was fine, but we can’t help thinking they should be doing something to get more customers in.
Making the food more interesting would be a start. There is no à la carte at lunch, and our party sampled most of the set lunch possibilities. Practically all featured dishes – sashimi, chicken katsu, hot pot with udon noodles – are familiar going-on-trite to anyone with a glancing experience of Japanese eating, and were realised no more excitingly than at many budget orientals.
According to the website, the aim of this ‘restaurant japponais’ is a Japanese menu ‘presented and served in a distinctly French style’. Apparently this means the (charming) waitresses look Eastern European and seem to have been taught to whisper ‘miso soup’, or whatever, rather pretentiously as they deliver items to the table.
On the upside, there was one ooh-ah moment, which was provided by a pudding of sorbet and shortbread. Authenticity can be an over-rated virtue.
On the upside, there was one ooh-ah moment, which was provided by a pudding of sorbet and shortbread. Authenticity can be an over-rated virtue.
