A double-barrelled Greek operation from an all-star team is the next big launch in Borough Market, with Agora opening at street level this month followed by Oma upstairs in April.
The new venture, which takes over the former site of chocolate specialist Rabot 1745 in Bedale Street, is from David Carter of Smokestak and Manteca, with a kitchen brigade headed by ex-Kiln head chef Nick Molyviatis and ex-Sabor executive chef Jorge Paredes.
Agora is inspired by bustling Athens street markets, and features a two-metre souvla rotisserie which will turn out whole spit-roast West Country pork, lamb and chicken. Lighter bites and coffee will also be available.
Upstairs, Oma will offer a calmer vibe redolent of the Greek islands, with a raw seafood bar and an open-plan live-fire kitchen. Culinary influences will cross the Aegean into the Levant, with Greek-style flatbreads, Santorini fava beans and meat and fish stews prepared in clay pots. Trailed dishes include Brown crab borek; Squid with garlic, za’atar and sumac; Lamb belly and caramelised date molasses skewers; and ‘Osso bucco’ youvetsi with bone marrow.
The menu is backed up by a list of 400 wines from Greece, Tenerife and other Mediterranean sources, with a focus on lesser-known producers and grapes.
David has a solid track record for punchy flavours in atmospheric settings at Smokestak, his homage to the barbecue traditions of the American South, and the Italian-influenced Manteca. He says: “Oma represents everything I love about restaurants: it offers a dining experience in its most intentional conception – from the design to the food to the style of service and aesthetic finishes, every part of Oma has been considered.
“It encapsulates and celebrates the raw beauty, natural landscapes and warmth of the places that have inspired it. The bold flavours of Greece and the Levant, created with amazing British produce treated simply and with respect.”
The launch is the latest in a series of impressive recent arrivals in and around Borough Market, including the Sri Lankan Rambutan, West African-inspired Akara, Thai specialist Kolae and modern bistro Camille.
