Chef Rowley Leigh is making his comeback to the kitchen at the age of 74 this month, working alongside executive chef Mahdi Chawki at the Don restaurant in the City of London.

Rowley, who made his name at Le Poulbot, Kensington Place and Le Café Anglais, has designed a menu based on classic simplicity and the adage: “Always use one ingredient less rather than one more.”

The Don was the headquarters of Sandeman Port between 1805 and 1967 – which has inspired his approach to his latest task.

He said: “I have always loved The Don. It will be a treat to come back to the City: my first head chef job was at Le Poulbot in Cheapside about a hundred yards away so it will be fun to come back. 

“My cooking may have changed a bit but the old school principles still apply: do justice to the ingredients and keep it simple. The menu won’t be a greatest hits album but there might be a couple of old favourites lurking around.”