Just can’t wait for the opening of Phil Howard’s new restaurant, Elystan Street in Chelsea, at the end of this month? Well, you can have a sneak pre-taste (and at a significantly lower price) next Saturday, September 17, at Barnes Food Fair.

Howard founded Mayfair thoroughbred The Square and ran its “brilliantly focused” (Harden’s Survey) kitchen for 25 years until selling up to restaurant magnate Marlon Abela in March.

At Elystan Street he takes over the premises vacated by Tom Aikens two years ago. The new venture promises be a little less refined than The Square – wood floor; no tablecloths – but Howard says his cooking remains “super ambitious”. His three-course lunch at Barnes costs £39.50, bookable in advance.