Our expectations on entering this new establishment behind Debenhams were frankly not very high. Its setting – occupying a small block which is otherwise entirely a multi-story car park – is about as uninviting as you’ll find in the West End.
The site’s history is not particularly encouraging either. For nearly half a century, it’s been owned by members of the ‘Spaghetti House’ family, and, in recent years, had traded as Vecchia Milano. After the recent re-launch, Milan is still the theme (‘Brera’ being the name of the oldest part of that city). Now, however, the aim is a sort of discreet, contemporary chic previously foreign to the Spaghetti House group (or, indeed, to the related Getti establishments).
The low-lit interior is intriguing, with a single row of dining tables encircling an attractive, slightly sunken bar. Offering an extensive cocktail list, the bar aims to become a destination in its own right. We see potential tensions here. The Miami Beach hotel-lobby music playing the lunchtime we visited, for example, was rather at odds with a restaurant menu whose prices signify serious intent. As the bar fills up on a busy night, the conflict may become stark.
On an early-days lunchtime, however, with the bar empty, the main emphasis was on the food, which fortunately measured up to the prices. Leaving aside a nice-looking basket of home-made breads – which disappointed on the taste front – what was notable was consistent quality of both preparation and presentation of this rich cuisine, even if there was nothing you could call earth-shattering. Service was amiable and efficient too.
All in all then, a useful hide-away in an unlikely location. Be prepared to pay, though, and – if visiting by night – hope that the bar hasn’t become too much of a hit.
