Chef Steven Smith, who left the acclaimed Ribble Valley gastropub Freemasons in Wiswell in June, has announced his next move – to head up futuristic Japanese restaurant MUSU in Manchester.

Steven transformed Freemasons over 15 years into one of the most commented-on venues in the annual Harden’s survey, which described it this year as ‘a fine-dining destination disguised as a pub’.

Musu was launched two years ago in Bridge Street by Mancunian nightlife entrepreneurs Vincent Braine and Marius Kamara, the duo behind Suede and the Milton Club in the city. They splashed out a reported £3.5 million on fitting out a space for what they call ‘2020s fine dining’ – described by the Guardian’s Grace Dent as a ‘bonkers version of the Starship Enterprise, with geishas on the wall’.

The venue is currently closed while it is converted into the MUSU Collection with three separate dining experiences, the first of which opens next Friday (18 October) under Steven’s leadership – MUSU Kaji, based on cooking with fire. It will be followed by MUSU Miyabi, where Steven will cook, and MUSU Theatre of Omakase, headed by sushi chef Andre Aguiar.

Steven said: “I’m honoured to join the MUSU Collection and excited to be part of a team that shares my commitment to excellence. From the moment I met the team, I was impressed by their ambition and drive. I’ve been looking for an opportunity that aligns with my passion for pushing boundaries, and MUSU’s vision is exactly that. I’m excited to work alongside Andre and the team to deliver something truly special for Manchester.”

Musu’s launch chef, Michael Shaw, is no longer involved in the project. A spokesperson for the restaurant paid tribute to his role in its foundation: “We appreciate his contributions and wish him all the best in his future endeavors.”