We’ve recently noted something of a ‘back to basics’ tendency in the London restaurant market, and the recent re-formatting of this Soho restaurant initially looks like a classic example. Out went the mid-’90s minimalism, and in – or so the word had it – came an outfit in classic brasserie-style.
Well, up to a point. In a rather Café Rouge-ish way, the large windows now bear some (supposedly) evocative French phrases, but the interior is still pretty minimalist. The introduction of one – albeit large – ’30s poster does not create an interior or particular period style or charm.
Charm, in fact, was in pretty short supply throughout our meal. That’s not to say that the staff were not, individually, perfectly amiable, just that the whole experience lacked animation. Think of the great brasseries of Paris, and what comes to mind? Bustling waiters? Gaiety? Plateaux de fruits-de-mer? Sparkling – often Art Deco – decoration? Long menus? Well, there are five features we found notably absent. The menu is in fact rather short – which makes it all the odder that one of the few slightly interesting items on it (boudin blanc) apparently hadn’t arrived that day. No daily specials were apparent (but there was a prix-fixe menu du jour).
The food we had was generally pretty dull. Not bad, just dull (though a bowl of soup really did bring dishwater to mind). A lemon tart, however, was something of a highlight, and the coffee wasn’t bad either. In fact, for all its failings, you could argue that this place is actually quite good value: where else in central London can you eat in comfort for £35 a head? But would we ever go back? Well, no. Cheap meals should be fun, and this place just isn’t.
