Marlow’s once-celebrated Compleat Angler hotel has launched a new restaurant. And it’s Indian. Sindhu is brought to us by Atul Kochhar, of Mayfair’s Benares – one of the Indian chefs credited with elevating subcontinental cuisine to true fine dining status. It was announced in October that he would take over the former Riverside restaurant, which until last year traded as Aubergine.

Kochhar, who already runs Indian Essence in Petts Wood, Kent, Ananda in Dublin and, of course, Benares – which made an appearance in the Sunday Times Top 100 restaurants – will not take the reins at Sindhu himself. Gopal Krishnan, who (like Kochhar) trained at India’s revered Taj Hotel group, has been appointed head chef.

Diners will have the chance to try Hiran ka Boti (venison saddle with cardamom and mace), Meen Moilee (wild sea bass with coconut moilee sauce) and Bathak Falliyan (Gressingham duck breast with three bean stew and coriander cress).

In recent years visits by our reporters to the Compleat Angler’s dining room were prompted more by the picturesque views over the Thames than culinary fireworks. Perhaps Sindhu (which means river or ocean, appropriately enough) is going to change all that?

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