His one caveat? “Some will find the Wormwood experience profoundly irritating. There is a breathiness to the service, an intensity in the way ingredients are pointed out before you’re allowed to eat them, which can be wearisome. And costs mount.”
The Telegraph’s reviewer writes: “I can see the appeal, really I can: big name, plenty of classics, reasonable prices. But the spark and perfectionism for which Stein is known have not yet percolated.”
There’s nothing anonymous about Golborne Road’s newcomer John Doe, says the Indy’s John Walsh
The critic is beguiled by the restaurant’s daring menu promising ‘wild British produce, cooked over wood and charcoal’, but delivering so much more.
Marina O’Laughlin finds herself reviewing the South Street Kitchen in Gillingham, Dorset
It wasn’t her first, or even second choice of places to eat but The Guardian writer finds a restaurant “as radical as a pontiff in stiletto-heeled pumps” for its part of the world.
Grace Dent pays a visit to Brooklyn Bowl at the O2 and isn’t exactly bowled over by the experience
“…a drab, joyless bowling alley with a space for live music in which they stand tables and serve food so abysmal that I didn’t even take home a doggy bag for my Labrador,” she writes in the Standard.
Evening Standard critic Fay Maschler answers her own critics as she reviews Blixen
“Two accusations that are hurled my way: you go to restaurants too soon, and you have been in the job so long that you have friends in the business.”
