The Oxo Tower has long been a South Bank landmark. And such are the incomparable vistas enjoyed by its top-floor restaurant and brasserie that – despite perennially iffy standards – they’ve been packed for a decade.
In contrast, the site at the foot of the building (whose view, more moodily, is as much of The Thames as of the opposite bank) has seen off three tenants in that time. However, on the basis of our early-days visit, this fourth occupant of the second-floor seems to have brighter prospects.
That is not to say it’s perfect. Even though it was sunny on our visit, the long and thin room has an uncompromising, echoey quality, verging on chilly. Bare Formica tables and blue-painted walls don’t help. Fortunately, though, service was very warm and welcoming. It was also uncannily well into its swing: even though the pretensions here are far from haute, the staff still knew – without being told – who was having what (on a table of five).
On the menu front, it was, for a change, the main courses which were memorable. Dishes such as haddock risotto with poached egg, or the same fish in a pie with a wonderful pastry hat, or pork belly and lentils all unreservedly impressed. Starters were more variable: a fish soup seemed gritty, and new-season asparagus a touch undercooked. Puds likewise were a mix of successful items – including a delicious orange cake – with ham-fisted numbers like a heavy hazelnut tart not improved by the inclusion of whole kernels.
But these are quibbles, because overall – especially given the very good prices – the place is hard to dislike. One of the backers, Dominic Ford, was the man who – in his days at Harvey Nichols – set up the restaurants overhead. He’s created somewhere much better-value here.
