It is a truth universally acknowledged amongst London sophisticates that provincial city-centre restaurants must be second-rate. For many years this was indeed true. And for many of those years the branches of the Living Room chain to be found in many major cities have been well worth knowing about as the best of a mediocre bunch, and in particular as a top choice for those in search of a (glitzy) night out.
Times are, however, a-changing – perhaps even more quickly in the sticks than in town – and it is therefore appropriate that this most successful provincial chain has now set up shop just off Regent Street. The results are probably pretty provincial, right?
Well, yes, there is a white mini-grand. Yes, there are peculiar bits of foliage between the seats that give a slightly TGIF feel to the expensively fitted-out interior Yes, there are serried ranks of beer pumps at the impressively proportioned bar that will grate with wine snobs. And, oh my dear, the length of the menu – which includes a kids’ selection, ‘home comforts’, and an ‘afternoon cream tea’ – certainly does not inspire confidence.
This being Value Week, we chose from the subsection called ‘Fixed Price Menu’ (£12 for two course). Disappointingly for snobs believing in the ineffable superiority of the capital and all its works, however, it turns out that the deal offers bang for your buck as good as you’ll find anywhere else in the West End. Nothing fancy, mind, but everything done well, generously and honestly. Service was friendly, too, and only just verged on anything approaching provincial matiness. Especially for a quick lunch or pre-theatre meal, this import from The North turns out to be well worth knowing about.
