As we scribble this review, news reaches us of the sale of London’s most here-today-gone-tomorrow restaurant site. We’d guess that the new owners won’t preserve the name (Iniga), so it will go down in the annals as just the latest fatality at a Chelsea address that’s seen half a dozen name-changes in recent years.
Today, we review another site at which hope springs eternal. It enjoys a pretty location in leafy, celeb-ridden Primrose Hill, almost within sight of the ever-vibrant Engineer. It’s not immediately next to any other restaurant however, which is perhaps part of its problem. Another difficulty is that there is only a small area visible from the street, with the main dining room hidden away downstairs.
Make your way down, however, and the cellar turns out to be surprisingly airy and smartly furnished. Yet on the Thursday night we visited, there were only a couple of tables occupied by about 9.15pm. This seemed very unfair, as we went on to enjoy a thoroughly satisfying ‘proper’ dinner for two for just £50, including half a bottle of vino. Not many places in a decent postcode you can say that nowadays! This is one of the few London restaurants currently offering a prix-fixe dinner menu at the sort of prices you might hope to find in a Parisian bistro. A range of good breads was followed by such staples as terrine, an ample lamb shank, a risotto and an apple tart, all done to a standard that would give no cause for complaint in the City of Light. And with notably charming and efficient service throughout.
At the not-inconsiderable a la carte prices, the place’s merits might seem be a little more elusive. If you don’t mind an absence of buzz, though and stick to the set menu – this is currently one of London’s top bargains.
