Could Hoxton Square become London’s first all-restaurant square? Possibly not – the White Cube gallery probably wouldn’t convert very well – but they certainly seem to be having quite a crack at it. The latest addition to the fray is this new oriental venture, backed by the Japanese Canteen people. Unlike some of the places round here, though, this is not just a place for proto-YBAs to hang out and try to look cool – it also offers some really good food.
As you approach, there’s little sign that this place is anything out of the ordinary. Indeed, it looks little different from many oriental canteen-type operations, if – like most places in the square – with some nice outside tables. Inside, though, the décor is notably pleasantly – calm and understated in a way that’s as much Scandinavian as oriental. Much of the seating is at high-backed banquettes – comfortable and private (if not ideal when you’re trying to attract attention). Downstairs, there’s a slightly quirky bar. Service seems to achieve a rare double-act. The ladies who serve seem authentically Japanese, in a very smiley sort of way, but also seemed to understand idiomatic English – nice, for once, to be spared that ‘stranger in your own land’ routine.
As noted above, though, it’s the cooking here – ‘mostly traditional Japanese with a bit of spice from Korea’, as they describe it – which is of real note, and it’s all very attractively presented too. A rather lukewarm miso soup started us off badly, but everything thereafter was very good, with stand-outs including tempura, quail and mutard miso yakitori and a beef and vegetable Korean rice hotpot. To finish, a chestnut, green tea and red bean ice cream selection was quite a hit – and not just with the children in the party.
