Dishoom is to open its latest branch next week – an all-day bar-café called Permit Room in Brighton, which officially launches on Wednesday 1 November, with a soft opening until then.
It is the tenth branch of the chain which started out in London in 2010, but the first to be branded under a separate name. While its predecessors took their inspiration from the Irani cafés of Bombay, Permit Room is named after the legal drinking venues with a permit to sell alcohol that emerged when the city’s post-Independence prohibition was relaxed in the 1960s and 70s.
Not surprisingly, drinks are a high priority, and Permit Room boasts an all-new cocktail and drinks list including an exclusive Pineapple and Black Pepper Crumble sour beer produced in partnership with local UnBarred Brewery. Cocktails include Aunty’s Anjeer Manhattan, a nod to the clandestine ‘aunty bars’ which existed in private homes before permits became available, and a Feni Martini using an Indian spirit made from fermented cashew apples that was bootlegged during the era of the aunty bars.
Permit Room’s food menu ranges from Dishoom favourites, starting with the famous bacon naan breakfast roll, to a new selection of bar snacks, chaats and curries. No red meat will be served, and more than half the dishes on the menu are vegetarian or vegan.
Shamil Thakrar, co-founder of Dishoom, says: “We’ve been going to Bombay for decades now, and have had many a merry time in permit rooms whilst on our travels – hours have been spent with friends huddled over chakli and chilli chips (food is always at the centre of the table in permit rooms!), all washed down with ice cold beers or Old Monk and Thums Up. It was clearly about time we put those late nights to good use.”
Dishoom is consistently the highest-rated group in the annual Harden’s Best UK Restaurants guide. There are now six branches in London and one each in Edinburgh, Manchester and Birmingham.