The famous mussels from Brussels pitch up in the heart of Theatreland; the result is a rather formulaic chain outlet, enlivened only by the friendly staff, and the high quality of the star menu item.
Big in Belgium, even bigger in France, this pre-eminent moules/frites chain recently opened its London-début outlet, on a prominent Theatreland corner. External impressions are rather chic but, on entry, you pretty quickly feel you are in uninspired chain territory. (The designers here clearly never bothered to pop in to Dishoom, not so far away, to see how it can be done.) It was cold the day we visited – despite the best efforts of the universally charming staff – the interior did little to cheer us.
You’d be mad to come here for anything other than mussels, and our big pot à la marinière speedily arrived. They were indeed as plump and fresh as the promotional video – on constant loop – would give one to hope. Frites, though were borderline-flabby and under-seasoned things, served in a sad little pot – not copiously ‘à volonté’, as on the continent. Bread – important for sauce-mopping – was good, and a waffle decent enough, but the espresso was rather disappointing.
Not an awful choice, then, if you should find yourself in this part of Theatreland, but hardly a destination we could recommend anyone to seek out.
