A restaurant dating back to 1757 will launch its first outpost in London’s Chinatown next week – introducing a new variety of noodles to the capital.
Songhelou in Wardour Street is descended from a restaurant that opened during the Qing dynasty in Suzhou, a city about 50 miles west of Shanghai. The long-lived Qianlong Emperor is said to have eaten there when he visited the area.
The new restaurant can accommodate 150 diners over three floors, and will serve Suzhou specialities including ‘Squirrel Fish’ (pictured), sea bass cut in a way that supposedly resembles a squirrel and served in sweet and sour sauce; and long, thin noodles served in broth with toppings.
According to Songhelou’s website, it has 30 branches taking in most of China’s leading cities – which might enable it to stake a claim as the world’s oldest restaurant chain. However, it seems the brand was “revived” in 2019, and may not be a direct descendent of the original.
Another famous speciality of Suzhou cuisine is ‘hairy crab’ from nearby Taihu lake, which apparently has aphrodisiac qualities and is very expensive. However, you are unlikely to find it on the menu at Songhelou in London.
