Mother takes over from Mistress in Barnes

A new Lebanese restaurant from industry veteran Pierre Hobeika opened this week in Barnes – a part of southwest London with no other Middle Eastern cuisine available.

Omm, meaning mother in Arabic, has taken over a generous corner site in White Hart Lane long occupied by local favourite Annie’s, and more recently by the short-lived Farmer’s Mistress.

Pierre’s career has seen him running restaurants from Beirut and Paris to London, most notably as manager of the upmarket Fakhreldine opposite Green Park in Piccadilly, in the building now occupied by Hide. He also founded Warda in Southgate, north London, in 2012.

Joining him at Omm is a long-time associate, chef Salah Zneit, who has put together a classic Lebanese menu of mezzes, grills and home-cooked dishes such as slow-cooked five-spice lamb shoulder with Bukhari rice, supplemented by wraps priced in single figures that are ideal for a light lunch. Desserts include the traditional osmalyieh (pictured) – crispy vermicelli with cream, pistachio and fruit syrup.

An interesting wine list showcases bottles from Lebanon’s Bekaa Valley and across the eastern Mediterranean and the Caucasus from Greece, Crete and Cyprus to Armenia and Georgia – but none from more familiar territory further west apart from Champagne and Prosecco. “I wanted to think out of the box,” says Pierre. “All the wines are available by the glass, if people want to explore.”

Omm can accommodate 60 guests sitting inside plus another 10 on a terrace overlooking the street with a heater and blankets. There is also a sheltered courtyard at the back for al fresco dining in warm weather. Pierre added: “It’s a lovely site and I think we’re offering something different for the area.”

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