Is it any surprise that London can baffle visitors? On the one hand, the US foodie-bible Gourmet proclaims it ‘the best place on the planet to eat right now’. But, on the other, it’s still nigh on impossible to find a really delicious and inexpensive lunch (unless you ‘go Indian’, ‘go Chinese’, etc).
Part of the problem is that British dishes are very much hostage to the quality and freshness of ingredients, and food with character and provenance is still remarkably hard to find. Gourmet’s best dish was, yes, a cheese sandwich – made with Neal’s Yard cheddar and pain Poilâne (from Belgravia). But they had to go to Borough Market to find it.
Ex-barrister Frances Hilliard and her husband live down Waterloo way, and they’ve followed the rise of Borough Market pretty much from its beginning. She has brought a little of its spirit- as well as some of its produce – to her new café take-away by the side gate of the Temple, which is already pretty much mobbed most lunchtimes.
The attraction is a short menu with just one hot dish. On the day we visited, it was slow roast pork belly (from Ginger Pig, as it turns out) with winter chard and a hint of chilli. It was superb. Tarts, made on the premises, are also a highlight. Bread comes from the Exeter Street Bakery. Coffee is excellent.
The downsides are those you might expect. You have to queue (if not for long, on our visit). The seating is cramped (though the setting is quite airy). Menu choice is limited and portions are not large. But, if you can have a delicious light lunch for around £15, who’s going to complain? If every London corner has a place like this, we really would live in the planet’s best foodie city.
