Chef Tom Aikens has opened his latest restaurant, Muse, in Chelsea. Already his ten-course tasting menu has been called everything from terribly “pretentious twaddle” to “pure genius“. It has, it’s safe to say, caused a stir.

It remains to be seen whether the controversial chef will win over the public. But it’s where people will have to go to eat his food in Britain now, as Aikens has just closed his final Tom’s Kitchen, blaming a challenging market and a shortage of skilled workers. It means every branch of what was a four-strong group has now shut. It isn’t surprising, given the most recent reviews.

Aikens said in a statement: “It is with regret that I confirm the closure of Tom’s Kitchen Chelsea, as of 2 January 2020. Extremely challenging market conditions, coupled with staff and skills shortages, unfortunately meant that it was no longer viable to continue trading.

“Whilst this is obviously very sad news for myself and all involved in the business, I am hugely proud of everything that we have achieved over the 14 years since opening Tom’s Kitchen on Cale Street in 2006.”

On Muse, which is a 25-cover fine dining venture not far from his now closed more casual enterprise, he said: “I believe this [Muse] is a restaurant that responds to both the opportunities and challenges of today’s restaurant industry and also makes sense for me professionally, after having decided to pause the fine dining offering five years ago.”