Harden’s regular round-up of the restaurant critics’ musings, from the week ending 1 March 2020. The Melusine, London E1 “Luring actual Londoners to St Katharine Dock is no mean feat”, Grace Dent of The Guardian says of the “peculiar cul-de-sac close to the Thames-side crown jewels tourist drag of the Tower of London”. But The […]

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Celebrity chef and campaigner Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall is closing his Bristol-based River Cottage Canteen after seven years. It was largely enjoyed. Fearnley-Whittingstall blamed the closure on “rising costs and challenging market conditions, as well as the size and location of the site”. The River Cottage founder said: “Following a full review of our business we have […]

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Harden’s regular round-up of the restaurant critics’ musings, from the week ending 23 February 2020. Four Seasons, London W1 “Because a nasty virus has broken out in a city 5,500 miles away from London, Britain’s Chinese community is suffering.” Jay Rayner from The Observer was in London’s Chinatown to show his support for the restaurant […]

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