Our round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 16th March 2025 London Standard Calong, Stoke Newington David Ellis was puzzled at this pop-up-gone-permanent restaurant from Joo Won, the Korean-born former head chef at the Galvin Brothers’ Windows. If his ambition was to produce London’s best Korean food, […]

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Two prominent female chefs announced their resignations this week – Lisa Goodwin-Allen, executive chef at Northcote in Lancashire, and Sally Abé of the Pem in London. Lisa is stepping down after spending 23 years – more than half her life – at Northcote, the Ribble Valley institution where she has also acted as host chef for Obsession, the […]

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Our round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 9th March 2025 London Standard La Polombe, Kensington David Ellis was won over by a two-year-old restaurant from James Chiavarini, owner of the long-running Il Portico nearby, which he has relaunched after bringing in a new head chef and […]

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Peripatetic wild food restaurant Native has closed after less than a year at its latest location, the Netherwood Estate on the Worcestershire-Herefordshire border, following a failure in its extraction system that “broke the camel’s back“. Chef Ivan Tisdall-Downes (pictured) and his business partner Imogen Davis launched the zero-waste, foraging-based project in 2012, winning widespread acclaim […]

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