Here’s our weekly round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 28th January 2024 * The Evening Standard “Measured hits of palate-jolting unexpectedness.” Jimi Famurewa reviewed Sune, an antidote to the “wine-led sharing-plates restaurant” formula and “chef-led pretentiousness” usually seen in Hackney. (It’s pronounced “sooner” and comes from […]
Here’s our weekly round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 12th November 2023. ***** The Evening Standard “A sophisticated, scintillating shot in the arm for London’s Thai scene.” Jimi Famurewa reviewed Kolae, “a new Borough Market, southern-accented grill restaurant from the creators of som saa that feels, […]
Here’s our regular round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about up to 8th October 2023. The Observer “Completely compelling.” “On a shopping parade in the heart of inland Cambridge” Jay Rayner checked out Fin Boys, “a curiously briny restaurant” to find so far from the sea. Chef Richard Stokes and (ex-Bibendum and […]
Here’s our regular round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 24th September 2023. The Observer “A hotbed of vegetable-love.” Jay Rayner reviewed Tendril, a vegan restaurant that “has put down roots in meaty Mayfair and is doing smart things with great produce”, creating “something distinctive, clever and […]
Here’s our weekly round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 16 July 2023. ***** The Observer “Ambitious, clever, relaxed, and hugely enjoyable.” Jay Rayner was in Bury St Edmunds in the heart of Suffolk, enjoying the fruits of labour of two ex-Pea Porridge chefs and their catering […]
Here’s our weekly round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 9 July 2023. ***** The Guardian “I shall never tire of seeing the power of a good restaurant bringing joy to its community.” Grace Dent was in the delightfully named Slaggyford, Northumberland at The Kirkstyle Inn where […]
Here’s our weekly round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 3 July 2023. ****** The Evening Standard Jimi Famurewa was in Notting Hill to review Empire Empire, the new Indian restaurant from Gunpowder founder Harneet Baweja, and found several “nettlesome issues”, not least the “small, awkwardly configured […]
Here’s our weekly round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 11 June 2023. ***** The Guardian “Food doesn’t get much more personal than this.” Grace Dent was in Caversham, enjoying “thoughtfully made and determinedly different” authentic Hyderbadi food at the “second incarnation” of Clay’s Kitchen, now in […]
Our summary of what the national and local restaurant critics were writing about in the week ending 5 March 2023. ***** The Observer Jay Rayner dropped in on 10 Tib Lane during his recent visit to Manchester (see below for a link to his interview with Manchester Live). The “trio of Manchester hospitality veterans behind […]
Our summary of what the national and local restaurant critics were writing about in the week ending 26 February 2023. ***** The Guardian Grace Dent dropped in to Beckford Canteen in Bath on “only the second official day of service” – “a time when no chef wants to see a restaurant critic” but she’d been […]
