Our weekly round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about up to 18 February 2024 ***** The Evening Standard Hainan House, Islington Jimi Famurewa was impressed by this “enormously likeable passion project” from “rookie restaurateur Sunny Wu”, who “seeks to illuminate the gastronomic tendencies of Hainan province for no other reason than the […]

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In The Guardian, Jay Rayner was searching for somewhere easy to eat near the Royal Albert Hall, and stumbled upon a gem in Tozi, a Venetian cicchetti (small plates) spot that’s attached to the Park Plaza Hotel (he wasn’t aware of this when he booked). It’s unmistakably  ‘London’ – “an echoing space of huge white-washed […]

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Stem had Jay Rayner from the amuse-bouche. He was looking for reassurance, having never eaten at the chef’s previous restaurants, and not quite knowing what to expect, but “a tiny, exceedingly crisp tart filled with a deep chive emulsion, all onion kick and adoration” did the trick. The menu of “good clean English, and full […]

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