Here’s our regular round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about up to 1st October 2023. The Observer “An unpretentious, but beguiling little bistro.” Jay Rayner popped to Cirencester to review Sam & Jak, whose owners Sam Edwards and Jak Doggett previously “ran the very much-loved Upton Firehouse in a broad shed not […]
Here’s our regular round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 24th September 2023. The Observer “A hotbed of vegetable-love.” Jay Rayner reviewed Tendril, a vegan restaurant that “has put down roots in meaty Mayfair and is doing smart things with great produce”, creating “something distinctive, clever and […]
Here’s our weekly round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 18 June 2023. ***** The Guardian Grace Dent reviewed Lilienblum, the “most recent opening” from Israeli chef Eyal Shani that had Jimi Famurewa at The Evening Standard impressed but perplexed last week; did Grace feel the same? […]
A happy week for the majority of the critics, with pork pies, new experiences and old friends. Only Marina O’Loughlin’s trip to West Sussex (“England by Disney”) and Ed Smith’s visit to Bagatelle (“nothing to swerve for”) were disappointments. Continuing from last week’s homage to the dumpling and pastry-encased leftovers, Jay Rayner in The Observer […]
A week full of hits – Jay Rayner is predicting The Next Big Thing, Grace Dent awards her highest mark yet, Kathryn Flett has a 5-star time in Margate and the Evenings Standard’s week of reviews are all raves. Only TPB hits a slighty low note with Core, which gets 4 stars but no real […]
Jay Rayner in The Observer is the latest critic to fall in love with Tomos Parry’s food at Brat. The place itself is perhaps to achingly Shoreditch, but the cooking is utterly lovely… “Show cooking may be tough, but trickier still is the seemingly effortless; the edible equivalent of, say, Anthony Hopkins’s performance in The Remains […]
Both Grace Dent and the Standard’s guest reviewer Labour MP Jess Phillips ate at Bryn Williams – both mention the appalling signage: GD “there are no signs for Bryn Williams during the half-mile walk from The Strand to your dinner table in the south wing”. JP “Somerset House is massive, has four or five eateries and […]
Jay Rayner in The Observer was unable to visit his original Chester target Brewery Tap because they don’t take late bookings, but finds a gem in Kokonut Grove… “The restaurateurs, chefs and waiters running restaurants in Britain offering the food of the Indian sub continent… if you want to eat in a British restaurant after about 9.15pm outside […]
This week sees three near-identical reviews of Brat from Tom Parker Bowles, Keith Miller and Fay Maschler (despite Fay saying last week she’d wait until a restaurant settled in to visit!), not including Grace Dent, who appeared to go with TPB… Jay Rayner in The Observer apologises in advance for loving The Dining Room at Beaverbrook […]
Jay Rayner in The Observer reviewed United Chip in Clerkenwell. But make sure you also check out his defence of restaurant pricing below… “…the bravest restaurant opening in years. “United Chip stands out for attending to practically every modern bell and whistle it can find, while still caring about the essentials.” “…be in no doubt: this […]