Here’s our weekly round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 11 June 2023. ***** The Guardian “Food doesn’t get much more personal than this.” Grace Dent was in Caversham, enjoying “thoughtfully made and determinedly different” authentic Hyderbadi food at the “second incarnation” of Clay’s Kitchen, now in […]
Happy Bank Holiday Monday! Here’s our regular round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 28 May 2023. ***** The Observer “In an area not renowned for its ambitious restaurant choices, this is one which deserves to thrive.” Jay Rayner was in Northern Ireland, struck lyrical by the […]
Here’s our regular round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 16 April 2023. ***** The Observer When “the food started to arrive… I knew we were somewhere else entirely.” Jay Rayner received a one-word answer from his counterpart at The Guardian when he announced he was reviewing […]
Our summary of what the national and local restaurant critics were writing about in the week ending 12 March 2023. ***** The Observer “Experience teaches us that more expensive does not always mean better.” Jay Rayner compared the suya (“the famed Nigerian way with smoked or barbecued beef, lamb and chicken”) from Knightsbridge restaurant Isibani […]
Our summary of what the national and local restaurant critics were writing about in the week ending 26 February 2023. ***** The Guardian Grace Dent dropped in to Beckford Canteen in Bath on “only the second official day of service” – “a time when no chef wants to see a restaurant critic” but she’d been […]
Our summary of what the national and local restaurant critics were writing about in the week ending 13 February 2023. The Evening Standard “Quite an old-fashioned, family-run restaurant formula in an enlivening new guise.” Jimi Famurewa truffled out a restaurant inside “a swish residential development” in Hoxton; Eline is “a gorgeous little restaurant and wine […]
Our summary of what the national and local restaurant critics were writing about in the week ending 5 February 2023. The Guardian “Pasta is safe in these chefs’ hands.” Grace Dent is the first of the critics to review Notto, the new Piccadilly pasta joint that started as a lockdown delivery service. “It isn’t remotely […]
Our summary of what the national and local restaurant critics were writing about in the week ending 29 January 2023. The Times “Life-changing, aeonic. Oh my God. All I wanted was more.” Giles Coren’s first visit to “big-deal US import” tinned-seafood specialist Saltie Girl was definitely not one that fitted his £50-a-head or under budget. […]
Our summary of what the national and local restaurant critics were writing about in the week ending 22 January 2023. The Guardian “One of London’s most notable new openings, a place to take the food obsessive in your life.” Grace Dent reviewed Restaurant St Barts, a “spacious, Scandi-esque spot overlooking the church of St Bartholomew […]
Our summary of what the national and local restaurant critics were writing about this week. The Observer “The joyful rebirth of chef Henry Harris’s restaurant Racine.” Jay Rayner is one of the first of the critics to review Bouchon Racine; even before going, as a “huge, dribbling admirer of all the people involved and all […]