Our mission is remarkably simple. To tell it how it is!
Harden’s regular round-up of the restaurant critics’ musings, from the week ending 1 March 2020. The Melusine, London E1 “Luring actual Londoners to St Katharine Dock is no mean feat”, Grace Dent of The Guardian says of the “peculiar cul-de-sac close to the Thames-side crown jewels tourist drag of the Tower of London”. But The […]
A happy week for the majority of the critics, with pork pies, new experiences and old friends. Only Marina O’Loughlin’s trip to West Sussex (“England by Disney”) and Ed Smith’s visit to Bagatelle (“nothing to swerve for”) were disappointments. Continuing from last week’s homage to the dumpling and pastry-encased leftovers, Jay Rayner in The Observer […]
This week we bring you the chance to compare and contrast two different restaurants as the Observer’s Jay Rayner and Tim Hayward in the FT both review Nuala, while Kathryn Flett’s Telegraph article and the Evening Standard’s Nicky Haslam deliver their opinions on the revival of Roganic… Jay Rayner in The Observer, likens restaurant reviewing […]
Jay Rayner in The Observer reviews The Kitchen, Inverness (after a bad meal at Boath House, Nairn)… BOATH HOUSE: “I’ve had more fun at the chiropodist, getting my corns removed. I left the Boath House with my will sapped. It is a brilliant opportunity wasted. “A narrow, gummy strip of treacle-cured salmon arrives, with cubes of bitter, […]
