Our mission is remarkably simple. To tell it how it is!
Jay Rayner in The Observer enjoys a knowing attempt to bring the street inside at Borough Market’s El Pastór (from Barrafina founders, the Hart bros)… It’s “a fun space of bare brick and shiny metal and colourful murals; a knowing attempt to bring the street inside”, with “tequilas in worryingly large servings” and “pork shoulder, marinated and […]
⦿ Jay Rayner of The Observer reviewed Koj, MasterChef finalist and former City banker Andrew Kojima’s “cheerfully low-key” Japanese comfort food joint in Cheltenham. “Koj Fried Chicken – work out the initials yourself – is halfway between the softness of American southern fried, and the full-on crunch of Japanese karaage. Sesame flavoured mayo sends it happily on its way. […]
⦿ Jay Rayner of the Observer reviewed Box-E, an 18-seater set inside a shipping container on Bristol’s Wapping Wharf, by Elliott Lidstone, former head chef of L’Ortolan and then of the Empress pub in Hackney. “I’d go so far as to say there’s a defined Bristolian style. It’s rooted in the love of the small bistros of France, championed by the late […]
⦿ The Guardian’s Marina O’Loughlin reviewed Trump Turnberry 6/10 in Ayrshire, where she arrived with “prejudices fully erect” and is told in a whisper, “We’re not allowed to talk politics.” “Yes, there’s a lot to loathe. I hate that the hotel celebrates Scottishness in a way only a tourist can love: charming doormen waft you indoors […]
The Guardian’s Marina O’Laughlin once dismissed Balham’s Chez Bruce as ‘ultra-bourgeois and a little dated… onefor the Bufton-Tuftons, with their florid, claret-hoofing faces and fear of the new, I sniffed”. Not so anymore. The critic now seems to understand why it has been Harden’s reporters’ favourite restaurant for the past decade – “I’m forced to suspect […]
AA Gill’s Table Talk column in the Sunday Times is back after a summer hiatus and we discover he’s been in Italy all this time – lucky him. Perhaps the holiday has brought out his softer side as he gifts the reborn Locanda Locatelli at the Hyatt Regency hotel a rare five out of five […]
The first review of Tredwell’s is in and it aint good Marcus Wareing’s latest venture isn’t incompetent, it’s just cynical, says the Standard’s David Sexton. Complete overhaul at the Compleat Angler Atul Kochhar, of Mayfair’s Benares, takes over the Riverside restaurant (formerly Aubergine). Grace Dent finds rather delicate portions at Kirazu Smaller, fiddly […]
The Editors’ review of Lyle’s A light and bright operation in the School of St John. At last, Quaglino’s to get a refurb D&D London will close the site July-October for a (much-needed) major renovation. Grace Dents finds the food at Ham Yard lacking “But the courtyard is pleasant to get drunk in, […]
The Editors’ review of The Palomar We find a characterful, upbeat dining room-come-bar serving refreshing Israeli cuisine. David Sexton is impressed by Jon Hunt’s first restaurant foray Pavilion, under chef Adam Simmonds, delivers plenty of luxurious complexity for the price. Never knowingly undersold (on burgers) Ham Holy Burgers to open first UK outlet […]
The Editors’ review of Ham Yard The food is the usual Firmdale Hotel formula, but the setting is really something special. Beast has Grace Dent roaring and raving “Look away now if London decadence leaves you boggle-eyed”, warns ES’s critic. Get a free glass of bubbly at the new Hawksmoor The Knightsbridge outpost […]
