Rapper-turned-chef Rabah Ourrad’s food at Wormwood gives pause to The Observer’s critic-in-chief Jay Rayner His one caveat? “Some will find the Wormwood experience profoundly irritating. There is a breathiness to the service, an intensity in the way ingredients are pointed out before you’re allowed to eat them, which can be wearisome. And costs mount.” Zoe […]
Can a pie be life-affirming? Marina O’Laughlin certainly makes Portland’s sound so The Guardian reviewer loves this recently opened Fitzrovia venture from the Quality Chop House’s Will Lander. “…it takes reservations and doesn’t charge like a rhino.” Meanwhile The Observer’s Jay Rayner is on another one of his jaunts, this time in Lyon The critic-in-chief […]
The Editors’ review of La Tagliata We find a very modern Tuscan villa with a competently realised menu. Zoe Williams – the loan dissenting voice on The Palomar Only two stars in the Telegraph? Has the Israeli restaurant gone so badly downhill since our visit just two months ago? Read our review. Brasserie […]
The Editors’ review of L’Anima Café Some of the food is of very high quality but there’s scope for greater consistency here. Opso? More like Oops Fay Maschler doesn’t enjoy her trip to Marylebone’s new Greek restaurant. Canvas to take over Le Cercle Restaurant ups sticks from Marylebone to Sloane Square. Kurobuta […]
The Editors’ review of Penkul & Banks This relaunch on the site of Beard to Tail (RIP) looks set to become a handy all-day destination. Ms Maschler’s five star review for new Barrafina The Standard’s critic is one of the first through the doors of the Covent Garden outpost, finding ‘vivacious, ambrosial’ food. […]
The Editors’ review of Strand Dining Rooms It’s a handy enough place for breakfast or tea and coffee but we’re not sure it persuades as a lunch/dinner destination. Ms Maschler enjoys ‘ethereal’ and ‘extraordinary’ food at Wormwood The Evening Standard critic is back from her hiatus and thrilled to discover a new Notting Hill […]
The Editors’ review of Bilbao Berria This Basque-style tapas joint is a welcome break from the usually grimly impersonal restaurants around Haymarket. Grace Dent falls in love with Georgian food at Marani ‘I don’t even like mascarpone that much, or mille feuille, but this is making me quite… emotional’. Vienna waltzes into Marylebone, […]
The Editors’ review of The New Angel Celestial choirs break out for us as John Burton-Race returns to the London dining scene. Zoe Williams wants to buy the Holborn Dining Room kitchen a timer Everything the Telegraph reviewer eats is overcooked, from lobster to liver. Ash Mair finally opens Bilbao Berria The MasterChef […]
The Editors’ review of Marcus We check out The Berkeley’s new look ‘casual’ dining room. Not all that casual, obviously. Fay Maschler isn’t wild about Fera at Claridge’s The Evening Standard critic finds the bill at Simon Rogan’s new restaurant is a little too rich for her tastes. Typing Room opens at the […]
Knightsbridge, revisited We take a trip to the newly relaunched Toto’s and find the service is just a little off. Grace Dent finds she can’t quite stomach Hackney’s Cat & Mutton “It has the feel of a Spaghetti Western bar-cum-brothel, there’s no reservations and the food arrives in no particular order.” Primeur brings […]
