Grace Dent in The Guardian rejoiced in the “sheer chutzpah” of chef Alex Bond at Alchemilla even before she ate a bite of the “veg-centric” menu. Bond has turned a huge, “crypt-like space… an abandoned coaching house” that had “sat unloved and festering for more than 100 years” into “a capacious, open brushed aluminium kitchen” […]
Jay Rayner in The Observer reviewed Farm Girl Cafe, the third branch is now open in Chelsea for dinner [and it’s safe to say he DID NOT like it…] “The menu at the Farm Girl Café features lots of initials. There’s V for Vegan, GF for Gluten Free, DF for Dairy Free…. There should be TF for Taste […]
Nicholas Lander in The Financial Times reviews Kai Mayfair, Grand Imperial at Charing Cross Hotel and Four Seasons on Chinatown’s Gerard Street, in anticipation of Chinese New Year (the Year of the Dog begins on 16 February)… “The long-established Kai Mayfair has a menu that is well attuned to wealthy clientele. While the high prices could, I suppose, […]
Jay Rayner in The Observer falls head over heels for Bertha at Edo, a new restaurant from former Ramsay protégé Jonny Elliot which opened discreetly in Belfast last year. To clarify, Bertha is the name of their wood-fired oven. You weren’t expecting her to be the waitress were you? “One of the issues with somewhere like […]
We take a look back at the best (and worst) of 2017 in the restaurant world. From TripAdvisor naming a Vice writer’s Dulwich shed the best restaurant in London to the chef who served food without plates, and plenty of scathing reviews – enjoy our highlights of the year. 2017, we salute you… When TripAdvisor […]
Jay Rayner in The Observer loves Stevie Parle’s Roman restaurant in Clerkenwell – Palatino – so much he doesn’t want to leave… “I don’t want to leave. Ever. I am very happy here in my lunchtime booth, as deep winter daylight falls, the lovely things keep arriving at my table and a fug of contentment settles. I […]
Jay Rayner in The Observer wants to love the newly refurbished Simpsons in the Strand, but the booze prices (“a maniacal laugh in the face of sanity”), “calamitous” Beef Wellington, and lack their infamous breakfast rather spoils his fun… “I want to love Simpson’s in the Strand. I want to adore it, in the way I once […]
Jay Rayner in The Observer says the decor at Gul & Sepoy is so distressed it needs a hug. From reading his review it sounds like Jay could use one too… “Sometimes it just doesn’t matter how good individual dishes are… If, at the end of the meal you feel baffled or let down or short […]
Giles Coren in the Times revisits Restaurant Gordon Ramsay (the original on Royal Hospital Road) and finds the three Michelin star level service to be just a bit much… “Smartly redone a couple of years ago in the art deco style, it must look great when empty, but it was so rammed with waiters that I […]
Jay Rayner in The Observer reviewed Fishers in the City, Edinburgh “Fishers in the City could be a truly terrific fish restaurant, if it weren’t for the small things that aren’t terrific. All the essentials are here: there are oysters, left unmolested, or grilled with a bone-marrow crust… soup is a cream-ballasted chowder, made with salmon and smoked […]