Our weekly round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about up to 25 February 2024 ***** The Evening Standard Tashas, Battersea Jimi Famurewa confessed that it took a trip to Sydney in January to convince him of the attractions of the Antipodean brunch. “And now I have fallen pretty hard for Tashas — […]
Our weekly round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about up to 18 February 2024 ***** The Evening Standard Hainan House, Islington Jimi Famurewa was impressed by this “enormously likeable passion project” from “rookie restaurateur Sunny Wu”, who “seeks to illuminate the gastronomic tendencies of Hainan province for no other reason than the […]
Our weekly round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about up to 11 February 2024. ***** The Evening Standard Grasso, Soho Perhaps retro-feel Italian dining never went away, but critics seem to concur that it is having a moment right now. Jimi Famurewa led the way into a “dining trend that is suddenly […]
Here’s our weekly round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 4th February 2024 ***** The Evening Standard “A scrappy, DIY sunburst of a space.” Jimi Famurewa reviewed Paradise Cove in Wandsworth, the latest in a string of restaurant that Tarell ‘Chef Tee’ Mcintosh has opened and lost, […]
Here’s our weekly round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 28th January 2024 * The Evening Standard “Measured hits of palate-jolting unexpectedness.” Jimi Famurewa reviewed Sune, an antidote to the “wine-led sharing-plates restaurant” formula and “chef-led pretentiousness” usually seen in Hackney. (It’s pronounced “sooner” and comes from […]
Here’s our weekly round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 21 January 2024 ***** The Evening Standard Jimi Famurewa reviewed Kebhouze, the new Oxford Street kebab joint from Italian businessman and “internet personality” Gianluca Vacchi which claims to be the UK’s biggest “despite the fact 220-cover Green […]
Here’s our weekly round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about up to 14th January 2024. ***** The Evening Standard David Ellis grumbled about the travel time to the new permanent Clapton location of chef Abby Lee’s Mambow, but even with a “bad beginning” (“queuing has not been planned for” and there was […]
Here’s our weekly round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the first week of 2024. ***** The Evening Standard Jimi Famurewa opened his first review of 2024 with a bold headline: “Welcome to London’s best new restaurant”. He was reviewing Donia, a Filipino spot that’s taken over the top floor of […]
Happy New Year! Here’s our weekly round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the fortnight over Christmas 2023. ***** The Evening Standard In a departure from the usual ‘best meals’ lists from our favourite critics, The Standard has produced a list of the worst meals of the year, compiled from the […]
Here’s our weekly round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 26th November 2023. ***** Tributes have poured in from all quarters since it was announced on Thursday that Russell Norman, founder of ground-breaking restaurants from Polpo to Brutto, died aged 57 after a short illness. David Ellis […]
