Here’s our regular round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 26 March 2023. ***** The Observer “Settle back into this gunmetal-grey velvet booth, put your elbows on the polished copper table and enjoy the ride.” Jay Rayner was in Glasgow, trying out the Total Trust menu at […]
Our summary of what the national and local restaurant critics were writing about in the week ending 19 March 2023. ***** The Independent “Sexy, slick, mischievous and delicious.” Hannah Twiggs reviewed the expertly reinvented Humble Chicken, now offering a “shiny new Japanese eight-course tasting menu “with a European accent”” at the site of the Frith […]
Our summary of what the national and local restaurant critics were writing about in the week ending 12 March 2023. ***** The Observer “Experience teaches us that more expensive does not always mean better.” Jay Rayner compared the suya (“the famed Nigerian way with smoked or barbecued beef, lamb and chicken”) from Knightsbridge restaurant Isibani […]
Our summary of what the national and local restaurant critics were writing about in the week ending 5 March 2023. ***** The Observer Jay Rayner dropped in on 10 Tib Lane during his recent visit to Manchester (see below for a link to his interview with Manchester Live). The “trio of Manchester hospitality veterans behind […]
Our summary of what the national and local restaurant critics were writing about in the week ending 26 February 2023. ***** The Guardian Grace Dent dropped in to Beckford Canteen in Bath on “only the second official day of service” – “a time when no chef wants to see a restaurant critic” but she’d been […]
Our summary of what the national and local restaurant critics were writing about in the week ending 13 February 2023. The Evening Standard “Quite an old-fashioned, family-run restaurant formula in an enlivening new guise.” Jimi Famurewa truffled out a restaurant inside “a swish residential development” in Hoxton; Eline is “a gorgeous little restaurant and wine […]
Our summary of what the national and local restaurant critics were writing about in the week ending 5 February 2023. The Guardian “Pasta is safe in these chefs’ hands.” Grace Dent is the first of the critics to review Notto, the new Piccadilly pasta joint that started as a lockdown delivery service. “It isn’t remotely […]
Our summary of what the national and local restaurant critics were writing about in the week ending 29 January 2023. The Times “Life-changing, aeonic. Oh my God. All I wanted was more.” Giles Coren’s first visit to “big-deal US import” tinned-seafood specialist Saltie Girl was definitely not one that fitted his £50-a-head or under budget. […]
Our summary of what the national and local restaurant critics were writing about in the week ending 22 January 2023. The Guardian “One of London’s most notable new openings, a place to take the food obsessive in your life.” Grace Dent reviewed Restaurant St Barts, a “spacious, Scandi-esque spot overlooking the church of St Bartholomew […]
Our summary of what the national and local restaurant critics were writing about this week. The Observer “The joyful rebirth of chef Henry Harris’s restaurant Racine.” Jay Rayner is one of the first of the critics to review Bouchon Racine; even before going, as a “huge, dribbling admirer of all the people involved and all […]
