⦿ Marina O’Loughlin of The Guardian reviewed Lorne 7/10 in Victoria, which lived up to the impressive CV of its founding partners, Katie Exton (sommelier and front of house) and Peter Hall (chef), who have worked at the Square, the River Cafe, Chez Bruce, Brawn and San Francisco’s celebrated Benu. “It’s the beef short rib that would make me a […]
⦿ Marina O’Loughlin of the Guardian reviewed Popolo 8/10 in Shoreditch,”run with utter grace by Jonathan Lawson, [an] ex-Theo Randall chef”. “The main flavour here is Italian classics, flawlessly realised… and dishes that straddle cuisines. Some appear to be the result of a particularly febrile imagination: cool, thick labneh studded with a hectic combination of crisp-shelled fried […]
⦿ In the Observer, Jay Rayner reviewed Barbecoa, the new Piccadilly flagship from Jamie Oliver (pictured, left, with Raymond Blanc), a grand and expensive “meat and smoke extravaganza“. “It feels like a big New York brasserie crossed with a branch of Hawksmoor. The real action is downstairs in a basement space which laughs in the […]
⦿ The Observer’s Jay Rayner reviewed The Salt Room, Brighton, overlooking the beach from the unpromising ground floor of the Hilton Metropole. “Good things are sometimes found where you least expect them, and this restaurant is a very good thing indeed.” “Most pleasing of the starters is the fish soup. A bowl arrives containing a soft, […]
Sourced Market this week became the first food business to open in the vast Nova restaurant-and-retail development opposite Victoria station. A further 16 restaurants and pop-up kiosks are due to open from early next year in the lower floors of the £250million Land Securities development, which also contains offices and luxury flats. There will be outdoor seating for 700 […]
The indefatigable Jason Atherton is to launch another restaurant in the City, with Temple and Sons opening next door to City Social next month. It will be Atherton’s eighth London restaurant since his Mayfair debut Pollen Street Social in 2011, and follows Sosharu, which opened in March this year. He has another eight around the world, including the Pig and Palm […]
⦿ Clipstone in Fitzrovia, which is still basking in AA Gill’s ecstatic review in the Sunday Times last week, attracted further praise this time around, the Observer’s Jay Rayner finding its food “delightful, with a few excursions into bliss and ah”. “From the short list of cold cuts and crudos comes a plate of lardo, the cured back fat of […]
⦿ The Observer’s Jay Rayner, perhaps enjoying an August Bank Holiday at the seaside, moseyed happily into Hantverk & Found in Margate, “a tiny cupboard of a fish restaurant, half tiled in the sea green of a Victorian public convenience”. “There are 10 seats up front, plus a few in the garden, and a couple of people in the kitchen knocking out […]
From Adam White (the man behind Fitzrovia’s popular brunch spot Riding House Café and Village East in Bermondsey) comes a vast new café in Victoria’s Nova development. The 330-cover venue is spread over two floors with a raised private dining room and outdoor seating area, accommodating 90, with an al-fresco bar. Rail House Café will […]
AA Gill heads out to The Woodford in search of Ben Murphy’s cuisine (a young chef of just 25 who trained under Pierre Koffmann) and finds that The Only Way is Essex is in fact a real way of life and not, as the Sunday Times’s columnist previously thought, simply a ratings-courting fiction. Incidentally he loves […]
