Here’s our regular round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 7 May 2023. ***** The Evening Standard “Days after visiting, I am still trying to fully compute each nook and cranny of its stylish, subtly affecting excellence.” Jimi Famurewa gave his top score to Story Cellar in […]
Here’s our regular round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 30 April 2023. ***** The Guardian Despite being unsure about the term “smoke play” (referring only to the Josper grill in the kitchen, thankfully), Grace Dent has been wanting to visit Khai Khai, on Newcastle’s Quayside, for […]
Here’s our regular round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 16 April 2023. ***** The Observer When “the food started to arrive… I knew we were somewhere else entirely.” Jay Rayner received a one-word answer from his counterpart at The Guardian when he announced he was reviewing […]
Here’s our regular round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 26 March 2023. ***** The Observer “Settle back into this gunmetal-grey velvet booth, put your elbows on the polished copper table and enjoy the ride.” Jay Rayner was in Glasgow, trying out the Total Trust menu at […]
Our summary of what the national and local restaurant critics were writing about in the week ending 19 March 2023. ***** The Independent “Sexy, slick, mischievous and delicious.” Hannah Twiggs reviewed the expertly reinvented Humble Chicken, now offering a “shiny new Japanese eight-course tasting menu “with a European accent”” at the site of the Frith […]
Our summary of what the national and local restaurant critics were writing about in the week ending 12 March 2023. ***** The Observer “Experience teaches us that more expensive does not always mean better.” Jay Rayner compared the suya (“the famed Nigerian way with smoked or barbecued beef, lamb and chicken”) from Knightsbridge restaurant Isibani […]
Our summary of what the national and local restaurant critics were writing about in the week ending 5 March 2023. ***** The Observer Jay Rayner dropped in on 10 Tib Lane during his recent visit to Manchester (see below for a link to his interview with Manchester Live). The “trio of Manchester hospitality veterans behind […]
Our summary of what the national and local restaurant critics were writing about in the week ending 26 February 2023. ***** The Guardian Grace Dent dropped in to Beckford Canteen in Bath on “only the second official day of service” – “a time when no chef wants to see a restaurant critic” but she’d been […]
Our summary of what the national and local restaurant critics were writing about in the week ending 5 February 2023. The Guardian “Pasta is safe in these chefs’ hands.” Grace Dent is the first of the critics to review Notto, the new Piccadilly pasta joint that started as a lockdown delivery service. “It isn’t remotely […]
Our summary of what the national and local restaurant critics were writing about in the week ending 29 January 2023. The Times “Life-changing, aeonic. Oh my God. All I wanted was more.” Giles Coren’s first visit to “big-deal US import” tinned-seafood specialist Saltie Girl was definitely not one that fitted his £50-a-head or under budget. […]
