Here’s our regular round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 30 April 2023. ***** The Guardian Despite being unsure about the term “smoke play” (referring only to the Josper grill in the kitchen, thankfully), Grace Dent has been wanting to visit Khai Khai, on Newcastle’s Quayside, for […]
Here’s our regular round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 23 April 2023. ***** The Times Giles Coren sat at the “performative eating counter” at Rambutan, the “spanking new Borough Market locus” for “diaspora Sri Lankan cooking over open fire”, from chef and cookbook author Cynthia Shanmugalingam. […]
Here’s our regular round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 16 April 2023. ***** The Observer When “the food started to arrive… I knew we were somewhere else entirely.” Jay Rayner received a one-word answer from his counterpart at The Guardian when he announced he was reviewing […]
Here’s a quick, bank-holiday round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 9 April 2023 and over the Easter weekend. ***** The Observer “It’s all delightful.” Jay Rayner was in Salford and paid a visit to Sakura; be warned, there’s another restaurant with the same name in the […]
Here’s our regular round-up of what the nation’s restaurant critics were writing about in the week up to 2 April 2023. ***** The Observer “Wave after wave of sweet and fiery and sour crashes on the wilder shores of your tongue.” Jay Rayner dived into the “neon-bright Bangkok flavours” at Speedboat Bar, on the Chinatown-fringe […]
Our summary of what the national and local restaurant critics were writing about in the week ending 19 March 2023. ***** The Independent “Sexy, slick, mischievous and delicious.” Hannah Twiggs reviewed the expertly reinvented Humble Chicken, now offering a “shiny new Japanese eight-course tasting menu “with a European accent”” at the site of the Frith […]
Our summary of what the national and local restaurant critics were writing about in the week ending 12 March 2023. ***** The Observer “Experience teaches us that more expensive does not always mean better.” Jay Rayner compared the suya (“the famed Nigerian way with smoked or barbecued beef, lamb and chicken”) from Knightsbridge restaurant Isibani […]
Our summary of what the national and local restaurant critics were writing about in the week ending 26 February 2023. ***** The Guardian Grace Dent dropped in to Beckford Canteen in Bath on “only the second official day of service” – “a time when no chef wants to see a restaurant critic” but she’d been […]
Our summary of what the national and local restaurant critics were writing about in the week ending 13 February 2023. The Evening Standard “Quite an old-fashioned, family-run restaurant formula in an enlivening new guise.” Jimi Famurewa truffled out a restaurant inside “a swish residential development” in Hoxton; Eline is “a gorgeous little restaurant and wine […]
Our summary of what the national and local restaurant critics were writing about in the week ending 5 February 2023. The Guardian “Pasta is safe in these chefs’ hands.” Grace Dent is the first of the critics to review Notto, the new Piccadilly pasta joint that started as a lockdown delivery service. “It isn’t remotely […]
